I can’t believe I’m even telling you this - but the Café Renoir in Montmartre is one of Paris’s best-kept secrets. Hidden in the gardens of the Musée de Montmartre on Rue Cortot, it’s the kind of spot you stumble upon and then immediately want to keep to yourself.
While tourists jostle for selfies up at Sacré-Cœur, just a short stroll away, you can be sipping a chilled drink in the shade, surrounded by fruit trees, climbing roses, and the quiet hum of bees - away from the touristy choo-choo trains.
From your seat, you’re quite literally seeing Montmartre through Renoir’s eyes, as he once painted these very same gardens and that swing. And the best bit? You don’t even need a museum ticket: just €5 to access the gardens and soak it all in.
Did Renoir Really Live in Montmartre?
Auguste Renoir lived here at 12 Rue Cortot from 1875 to 1877, and he didn’t waste time twiddling his paintbrush. He captured the garden in Le Jardin de la rue Cortot, painted La Balançoire (The Swing) just steps from your café table, and even sketched scenes for Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette, inspired by the nearby windmill.
If you visit in winter, the sun room at Café Renoir is the cosiest spot. It's filled with vintage finds from La Petite Brocante de Montmartre, dried flowers, and soft light pouring through the windows. It’s easy to imagine Renoir sitting right there, sketching with cold fingers and perhaps a glass of wine. I'm getting carried away.
A Quick History of the Musée de Montmartre
Number 12 Rue Cortot is the oldest house in Montmartre, built in the 17th century. Over the centuries, it became a revolving door for artists, dreamers, and probably a few cats. It was home not just to Auguste Renoir, but also Emile Bernard, Suzanne Valadon and her son, Maurice Utrillo (who moved to Le Vésinet, just outside Paris).
In 1959, thankfully, it was finally restored and opened as the Montmartre Museum.
Today, the museum delves into the neighbourhood’s bohemian past. Think dance halls, wine harvests, cheeky cabarets and the kind of Montmartre that still clings to the edges, if you know where to look. Spoiler: you’re standing in it.
Café Renoir Menu: What's on Offer?
All that art appreciation works up an appetite so let’s look at the Café Renoir menu.
It’s not a full-blown brasserie with lots on the menu, but that’s the charm. In the summer, you’ll usually find things like fresh salads (for example: quinoa, carrot salad Moroccan style) and simple quiches. In winter? A soupe du jour to warm the cockles.
Again, the dessert choice is small but think gooey fondant au chocolat, fruit crumble, or creamy cheesecake. Wash it down with something chilled. When I was there, maybe a glass of organic Apremont white wine from Savoie (usually perfect with a French Cheese fondue Savoyarde), their crisp house iced tea with mint, or an elegant Alain Milliat fruit juice. Oh, and there’s also Sassy Cidre, for when you're feeling a little bit cheeky.
Where is Renoir's Swing in Montmartre?
The view from the quiet Café Renoir looks on to my favourite part of the garden: the famous swing, La Balançoire. It’s right here in the garden - and if you sit at the café long enough, you’ll probably hear someone whisper, “Is that the swing?”
The painting was presented at the Impressionists' exhibition in 1877 but critics weren’t too kind. Luckily, Renoir had Gustave Caillebotte in his corner; a fellow artist and art collector who bought it, jolly good chap!
The gardens are so inviting to linger and enjoy the familiar views that would have been seen by Suzanne Valadon and her son, Maurice Utrillo from their painting atelier, which has recently been restored to resemble what it was back in 1912.
Montmartre's Vineyard: View from the Gardens
Just beyond the museum gardens lies one of Paris’s quirkiest surprises: le Clos Montmartre vineyard. Replanted in 1933, this little patch of vines clings to the hillside and produces real, drinkable wine - although more collectable I'd say.
If you're here in October, la Fête des Vendanges Montmartre wine festival is a local celebration not to miss. Think live music, food stalls, and 50,000 people raising a glass or three. But even out of season, the view over the vines from Café Renoir is one of the prettiest in the city - in summer and autumn.
Garden Workshops at the Musée Montmartre
Want to take a little piece of the garden home with you? The museum runs Renoir Garden workshops where you can learn how to grow herbs and edible flowers on your Parisian balcony (or windowsill, or fire escape).
There are also kids' activities if you’ve got little ones in tow—like seed planting or gardening basics. It’s hands-on, feel-good stuff. For up-to-date info and bookings, check their official Renoir Garden Workshop information site.
How to Get to Café Renoir in Montmartre
Take the Métro to Lamarck–Caulaincourt (line 12) or Anvers (line 2), then walk up through Montmartre’s winding streets. It’s worth every step.
For a scenic, sweet-fuelled route, see my Montmartre DIY Chocolate and Pastry Guide and turn your café visit into a full-blown gourmet adventure. I recommend to check their website for the latest opening times and exhibition details.
The Café Renoir, Musée Montmartre
12 rue Cortot, 75018 Paris
Open 11am-6pm
This post is not sponsored in any way.
Sevtap
Hello, I really enjoy your informative post. Love the quiche and wine suggestion ?my family and I are coming to Paris next Saturday for the first time ?Just until Monday. We will bring our two daughters, my sister and her husband. My sister and her her husband will take my girls to Disney all day Sunday. I am always so stressed when I go to a new place I do not know?my husband I are on our own in the city that day. I would love some tips and suggestions on where to eat lunch& dinner perhaps. grab a good coffee/ snack. I am so nervous about finding place which is too crowded or too full and etc. thanks very much in advance for any suggestions. Best regards. Sevtap McClellan
Jill Colonna
Hi Sevtap,
Great you're visiting!
I suggest you read my posts on ideal teatime spots in Paris by looking at "My Paris" - and my recent article about Rue Saint-Dominique's best pastry and tea shops in a few blocks. There are also many super restaurants in the street too, nearest the Eiffel Tower end. Les Cocottes de Christian Constant (no reservations, turn up EARLY!), also Thoumieux or its Brasserie.
Have a super time in Paris
Jill
Sevtap
Ohh thank you very much dear Jill. You are very kind. I really enjoy following you. We are very excited to finally come to Paris.
Sending you love!
Jill Colonna
It's such a real pleasure when I receive such a lovely response in return! Enjoy your trip x
Christina | Christina's Cucina
What a lovely hidden treasure, Jill! Thanks for letting us in on this gem. That vegetarian quiche looks delightful and I could go for one just like it right now (I'm starving- only had a salad for lunch)! 😉 I'm definitely putting Cafe Renoir and the Montmartre Museum Gardens on my list for my next visit to Paris (hopefully sooner than later)! I love that the swing is still in place!
Jill Colonna
Haste ye back to Paris, Christina. Yes, that swing is the best! Adore places that have interesting and arty history attached too.
Linda
Oops, meant to comment about the food and location too, both of which look real gems. Got carried away by the wine!
Jill Colonna
I always tend to get carried away when it comes to good wine, too, Linda! Cheers x
Linda
Ooh, I love Apremont wine. Fond memories of having vin chaud after cross country skiing in the massif de la Chartreuse.
Thomasina
Museum's Renoir gardens would be an oasis for me with its cafe. A glass of wine there with lunch sounds great. Last time I visited Sacre Coeur and Place du Tertre I wish I had known about this place because the crowds were overwhelming and the eating establishments around there were very expensive. I would like to visit at night time - great to have this opportunity so thank you so much for this blog Jill.
Jill Colonna
totally agree on the expensive tourist traps around here, Thomasina. I love this tranquility and can imagine you will too!
Bea
Hold that thought Jill, I am so in need of a trip over there so I can just kick back and relax with good food and wine. I love somewhere that's quiet, beautiful and peaceful. Sounds so lovely. We are having the exact same 36°C
Jill Colonna
I'm hoping you will have that trip over to Paris, Bea!
Betty
What a beautiful place, Jill and the luncheon there sounds very nice! Could definitely make the hustle and bustle of Montmartre worth it! Wish I was there to attend the gardening classes! Great blog post!
Jill Colonna
It is very worth it, Betty. Lovely spot.
Jill Colonna
It's a great place for a quiet drink and as I said, Jean, look at the surroundings. Totally cool!
Jill Colonna
Or I should say, "swinging" 😉
Jean
I love Montmartre but each time been overwhelmed by the crowds. This sounds great to be able to dodge them and it looks so lovely. Thanks Jill!