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    Home • Blog Posts • French Food Guides

    Escape the Crowds at the Café Renoir Montmartre

    Published: May 14, 2025 by Jill Colonna18 Comments

    I can’t believe I’m even telling you this - but the Café Renoir in Montmartre is one of Paris’s best-kept secrets. Hidden in the gardens of the Musée de Montmartre on Rue Cortot, it’s the kind of spot you stumble upon and then immediately want to keep to yourself.

    While tourists jostle for selfies up at Sacré-Cœur, just a short stroll away, you can be sipping a chilled drink in the shade, surrounded by fruit trees, climbing roses, and the quiet hum of bees - away from the touristy choo-choo trains.
    From your seat, you’re quite literally seeing Montmartre through Renoir’s eyes, as he once painted these very same gardens and that swing. And the best bit? You don’t even need a museum ticket: just €5 to access the gardens and soak it all in.

    Renoir garden and famous swing he painted in Montmartre

    Did Renoir Really Live in Montmartre?

    Auguste Renoir lived here at 12 Rue Cortot from 1875 to 1877, and he didn’t waste time twiddling his paintbrush. He captured the garden in Le Jardin de la rue Cortot, painted La Balançoire (The Swing) just steps from your café table, and even sketched scenes for Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette, inspired by the nearby windmill.

    If you visit in winter, the sun room at Café Renoir is the cosiest spot. It's filled with vintage finds from La Petite Brocante de Montmartre, dried flowers, and soft light pouring through the windows. It’s easy to imagine Renoir sitting right there, sketching with cold fingers and perhaps a glass of wine. I'm getting carried away.

    The oldest house in Montmartre is the museum in rue Cortot, a large country house in Paris

    A Quick History of the Musée de Montmartre

    Number 12 Rue Cortot is the oldest house in Montmartre, built in the 17th century. Over the centuries, it became a revolving door for artists, dreamers, and probably a few cats. It was home not just to Auguste Renoir, but also Emile Bernard, Suzanne Valadon and her son, Maurice Utrillo (who moved to Le Vésinet, just outside Paris).

    In 1959, thankfully, it was finally restored and opened as the Montmartre Museum.
    Today, the museum delves into the neighbourhood’s bohemian past. Think dance halls, wine harvests, cheeky cabarets and the kind of Montmartre that still clings to the edges, if you know where to look. Spoiler: you’re standing in it.

    café renoir montmartre museum Paris

    Café Renoir Menu: What's on Offer?

    All that art appreciation works up an appetite so let’s look at the Café Renoir menu.

    It’s not a full-blown brasserie with lots on the menu, but that’s the charm. In the summer, you’ll usually find things like fresh salads (for example: quinoa, carrot salad Moroccan style) and simple quiches. In winter? A soupe du jour to warm the cockles.

    Again, the dessert choice is small but think gooey fondant au chocolat, fruit crumble, or creamy cheesecake. Wash it down with something chilled. When I was there, maybe a glass of organic Apremont white wine from Savoie (usually perfect with a French Cheese fondue Savoyarde), their crisp house iced tea with mint, or an elegant Alain Milliat fruit juice. Oh, and there’s also Sassy Cidre, for when you're feeling a little bit cheeky.

    cafe renoir montmartre museum garden

    Where is Renoir's Swing in Montmartre?

    The view from the quiet Café Renoir looks on to my favourite part of the garden: the famous swing, La Balançoire. It’s right here in the garden - and if you sit at the café long enough, you’ll probably hear someone whisper, “Is that the swing?”

    The painting was presented at the Impressionists' exhibition in 1877 but critics weren’t too kind. Luckily, Renoir had Gustave Caillebotte in his corner; a fellow artist and art collector who bought it, jolly good chap!

    The gardens are so inviting to linger and enjoy the familiar views that would have been seen by Suzanne Valadon and her son, Maurice Utrillo from their painting atelier, which has recently been restored to resemble what it was back in 1912.

    sloping vineyard with bright green leaves in summer in Montmartre

    Montmartre's Vineyard: View from the Gardens

    Just beyond the museum gardens lies one of Paris’s quirkiest surprises: le Clos Montmartre vineyard. Replanted in 1933, this little patch of vines clings to the hillside and produces real, drinkable wine - although more collectable I'd say.

    If you're here in October, la Fête des Vendanges Montmartre wine festival is a local celebration not to miss. Think live music, food stalls, and 50,000 people raising a glass or three. But even out of season, the view over the vines from Café Renoir is one of the prettiest in the city - in summer and autumn.

    Renoir Cafe Gardens Beehives Montmartre Museum

    Garden Workshops at the Musée Montmartre

    Want to take a little piece of the garden home with you? The museum runs Renoir Garden workshops where you can learn how to grow herbs and edible flowers on your Parisian balcony (or windowsill, or fire escape).

    There are also kids' activities if you’ve got little ones in tow—like seed planting or gardening basics. It’s hands-on, feel-good stuff. For up-to-date info and bookings, check their official Renoir Garden Workshop information site.

    café renoir montmartre museum

    How to Get to Café Renoir in Montmartre

    Take the Métro to Lamarck–Caulaincourt (line 12) or Anvers (line 2), then walk up through Montmartre’s winding streets. It’s worth every step.

    For a scenic, sweet-fuelled route, see my Montmartre DIY Chocolate and Pastry Guide and turn your café visit into a full-blown gourmet adventure. I recommend to check their website for the latest opening times and exhibition details.

    The Café Renoir, Musée Montmartre
    12 rue Cortot, 75018 Paris
    Open 11am-6pm

    This post is not sponsored in any way.

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    Bonjour - I'm Jill

    As a cookbook author and founder of Mad About Macarons since 2010, I’ve spent 30+ years perfecting foolproof French recipes in Paris—so you don’t have to! Expect step-by-step guidance, lower-sugar treats that don’t skimp on flavour, plus insider food and market guides to help you taste France like a local. If I can do it, so can you - no fancy techniques required!

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    1. Sevtap

      October 20, 2017 at 9:31 pm

      Hello, I really enjoy your informative post. Love the quiche and wine suggestion ?my family and I are coming to Paris next Saturday for the first time ?Just until Monday. We will bring our two daughters, my sister and her husband. My sister and her her husband will take my girls to Disney all day Sunday. I am always so stressed when I go to a new place I do not know?my husband I are on our own in the city that day. I would love some tips and suggestions on where to eat lunch& dinner perhaps. grab a good coffee/ snack. I am so nervous about finding place which is too crowded or too full and etc. thanks very much in advance for any suggestions. Best regards. Sevtap McClellan

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        October 21, 2017 at 4:23 pm

        Hi Sevtap,
        Great you're visiting!
        I suggest you read my posts on ideal teatime spots in Paris by looking at "My Paris" - and my recent article about Rue Saint-Dominique's best pastry and tea shops in a few blocks. There are also many super restaurants in the street too, nearest the Eiffel Tower end. Les Cocottes de Christian Constant (no reservations, turn up EARLY!), also Thoumieux or its Brasserie.
        Have a super time in Paris
        Jill

        Reply
        • Sevtap

          October 25, 2017 at 8:27 am

          Ohh thank you very much dear Jill. You are very kind. I really enjoy following you. We are very excited to finally come to Paris.
          Sending you love!

          Reply
          • Jill Colonna

            October 25, 2017 at 6:23 pm

            It's such a real pleasure when I receive such a lovely response in return! Enjoy your trip x

            Reply
    2. Christina | Christina's Cucina

      July 30, 2017 at 1:03 am

      What a lovely hidden treasure, Jill! Thanks for letting us in on this gem. That vegetarian quiche looks delightful and I could go for one just like it right now (I'm starving- only had a salad for lunch)! 😉 I'm definitely putting Cafe Renoir and the Montmartre Museum Gardens on my list for my next visit to Paris (hopefully sooner than later)! I love that the swing is still in place!

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        July 30, 2017 at 1:27 pm

        Haste ye back to Paris, Christina. Yes, that swing is the best! Adore places that have interesting and arty history attached too.

        Reply
    3. Linda

      July 26, 2017 at 10:48 am

      Oops, meant to comment about the food and location too, both of which look real gems. Got carried away by the wine!

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        July 30, 2017 at 1:26 pm

        I always tend to get carried away when it comes to good wine, too, Linda! Cheers x

        Reply
    4. Linda

      July 26, 2017 at 10:47 am

      Ooh, I love Apremont wine. Fond memories of having vin chaud after cross country skiing in the massif de la Chartreuse.

      Reply
    5. Thomasina

      July 24, 2017 at 1:12 pm

      Museum's Renoir gardens would be an oasis for me with its cafe. A glass of wine there with lunch sounds great. Last time I visited Sacre Coeur and Place du Tertre I wish I had known about this place because the crowds were overwhelming and the eating establishments around there were very expensive. I would like to visit at night time - great to have this opportunity so thank you so much for this blog Jill.

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        July 30, 2017 at 1:25 pm

        totally agree on the expensive tourist traps around here, Thomasina. I love this tranquility and can imagine you will too!

        Reply
    6. Bea

      July 23, 2017 at 8:07 am

      Hold that thought Jill, I am so in need of a trip over there so I can just kick back and relax with good food and wine. I love somewhere that's quiet, beautiful and peaceful. Sounds so lovely. We are having the exact same 36°C

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        July 30, 2017 at 1:24 pm

        I'm hoping you will have that trip over to Paris, Bea!

        Reply
    7. Betty

      July 23, 2017 at 3:57 am

      What a beautiful place, Jill and the luncheon there sounds very nice! Could definitely make the hustle and bustle of Montmartre worth it! Wish I was there to attend the gardening classes! Great blog post!

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        July 23, 2017 at 7:27 am

        It is very worth it, Betty. Lovely spot.

        Reply
    8. Jill Colonna

      July 22, 2017 at 10:52 pm

      It's a great place for a quiet drink and as I said, Jean, look at the surroundings. Totally cool!

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        July 22, 2017 at 10:52 pm

        Or I should say, "swinging" 😉

        Reply
    9. Jean

      July 22, 2017 at 8:22 pm

      I love Montmartre but each time been overwhelmed by the crowds. This sounds great to be able to dodge them and it looks so lovely. Thanks Jill!

      Reply

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    Welcome

    Bonjour - I'm Jill

    As a cookbook author and founder of Mad About Macarons since 2010, I’ve spent 30+ years perfecting foolproof French recipes in Paris—so you don’t have to! Expect step-by-step guidance, lower-sugar treats that don’t skimp on flavour, plus insider food and market guides to help you taste France like a local. If I can do it, so can you - no fancy techniques required!

    Meet Jill

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