What to Do in Marseille France - Travel Guide

Marseille, the oldest city in France, is renowned for its rich historical culture and stunning Mediterranean coastline. It’s definitely worth a visit, so don’t miss my top tips on what to do - and eat - in France’s second-largest city.

Since my Corsican parents-in-law live in Marseille, we’ve been visiting frequently since 1993. However, visiting family has a different vibe compared to travelling as a tourist, so I have shied away from writing until now. After 30 years of experience, I have finally compiled this ultimate travel guide to France’s Mediterranean capital.

Where is Marseille, France?

Situated west of the French Riviera, Marseille (pronounced 'Mar-saye') sits on the Mediterranean coast on the Gulf of Lion. It's sandwiched loosely between Montpellier and the Camargue in the west; with Toulon, St Tropez, Cannes and Nice in the east. Just north is Aix-en-Provence, the capital of marzipan calissons.

A major port for centuries, it's also the location for cruise ships to Africa, Italy and Corsica - the latter being the reason my Corsican family live there, for easy access by overnight boat to the French-Italian island.

Brief History in a Nutshell

Marseille is France's oldest city, founded by the Greeks around 600 B.C. due to its ideal location for navigators. It then was known as Massilia by the Romans, was a major 'stop-over' during the Crusades, half of it survived the Plague in the 18th century and, since WWII, has been home to many major industries, visible in nearby ports. Thanks to being handed to the French king in 1481, it has also been the biggest Mediterranean shipping port.

For much more of the city's history and French culture, I recommend a visit to the Musée de l'Histoire de Marseille. Alas most of the exhibits are in French, but I hear they're introducing more English soon. My kids' highlight (from early age to adults!) was reconstructing broken ceramic vases, as part of the archaeology section.

What Marseille is Known For Today

Today, Marseille has the world's largest commercial port between Europe, North Africa and the Middle East. As a result, it's known as the gate to the Orient (porte de l'Orient), as navigators brought in all sorts of merchandise. Some interesting facts:

• The first coffee in France was served in Marseille in 1654 ('On va déguster la France', François-Regie Guadry). Coming from Ethiopia and Yemen (Arabica), they sweetened it as found it too bitter, then gradually added milk end of the 17th century.
• Marseille has a strong culinary tradition, being home to the famous Bouillabaisse fish dish. See its food specialities below: from restaurants, markets to bakeries, chocolate and coffee grinders.
• Famous for its savon de Marseille soap for 600 years. You'll see it everywhere in supermarkets all around France and Provençal markets. Made with vegetable oil, olive oil and lavender are most popular, often used in the kitchen. Visit the museum at the Vieux-Port.
• Known for their French football (soccer) team with an impressive stadium (le stade vélodrome). If you're a fan of 'le foot' like my husband, you'll hear 'OM' a lot: it's the famous Olympique de Marseille 'club de foot'.
• Its street art - particularly in the Panier quarter, the oldest area in the city.
• Marseille's zip code is 13000; so the 1st arrondissement (like Paris and all other French cities) zip code is 13001.
• The 2024 Olympics in France is not just hosted in Paris; Marseille hosts the sailing events. Temporary spectator stands are along the stunning coastal cliffs.

Marseille's Food Specialities

It's no surprise that Marseille is known best for its fish and seafood brought in daily to the Vieux-Port. But there's also a huge North African influence from its former French colonies of Morocco, Algeria and Tunisia.
With such a huge immigrant community, head to the Marché des Capucins (or Noailles) to be transported to travel with fabulous market fruit and vegetables, spices and herbs. (Every morning except Sunday.)

Of course, there are Mediterranean influences with the likes of Italian food and pizza (see our best pizzeria picks below). Fish and seafood are everywhere via street stands to bistros: featuring oysters, sea snails, clams, sea urchins, prawns/shrimp and mussels.

Try the Local Bouillabaisse - Marseille's Most Famous Dish

Marseille's most famous classic dish is the Bouillabaisse. It's complex and costly, since it's full of the most incredible ingredients and since 1980 its authenticity has even been protected by local restaurateurs.
According to the Larousse Gastronomique dictionary, its name comes from the Provençal, 'bouiabaisso' meaning when it boils, turn it down. Imported by the Phocean fishermen 2600 years ago, it was basically a variety of fish with water.

Bouillabaisse is traditionally served as a fish soup with rockfish and line-caught fish served apart. It's authentic if made only with Mediterranean fish such as scorpionfish (rascasse) and 'noble' or royal others are added such as John Dory plus often seafood (mussels, crabs). Olive oil, spices (pepper and saffron), herbs (parsley and bay leaves) and orange zest all flavour it, while it's served with garlic rouille sauce, toasted garlic-rubbed bread and often a spice purée.

Where to Eat Bouillabaisse in Marseille

To enjoy Bouillabaisse in Marseille, all seafood restaurants serve it so there are many possibilities. From top Michelin-starred restaurants such as the historic Le Petit Nice Passedat, Chez Fonfon (Vallon des Auffes harbour - in my photo above) and la Riviera (la Pointe-Rouge beach). If you're in the Calanques, head to l'Auberge de Mérou, Niolon (in the Calanques - previous photo).
For a more budget version, take one to go from Bouillabaisse Turfu near the old port. It's fabulous!

More Marseille Restaurants

Explore more hidden food gems: from surprising hole-in-the-wall bistros with Marseille's culinary voyage of specialities such as Tunisian market cuisine, Moroccan couscous and tagine. Otherwise, find the freshest seafood stands to the best fish served in many Marseille restaurants dotted along the dramatic coast. Just some of our favourites:

• Pierrot Coquillages - popular with the locals. Best seafood stand with local oysters, prawns, sea snails, lobster, crab and urchins. So fresh, they close over the summer (June-August) in respect to its seasonality (Avenue du Prado, 8th).
• À Strega - family run, typical Corsican restaurant, open for lunch only. In a pedestrian street, lovely atmosphere serving authentic cuisine du terroir: pâtés, charcuterie, cheeses, their catch of the day, pasta dishes with fresh fish and seafood (Panier; cash only, open Thurs-Sun).
• Chez Yassine - Tunisian market cuisine with keftaji (grilled bell peppers, frites and eggs), chickpea soup (leblebi) and egg and tuna 'brick' (rue d'Aubagne, Noailles)
• Le Petit Amandier - Travel to Morocco with authentic couscous, tagines to the most decadent Moroccan patisserie served with mint tea.
• Le Bousti - Provençal 'Bar à Tapas'
• La Pequena Boqueria - Spanish 'Bar à Tapas'
• Homer Lobster - award-winning lobster rolls on rue Paradis.

Best Pizza in Marseille

Good pizza is important to the Marseillais - from pizza trucks around OM football matches to authentic Italian restaurants. Known as 'Pizze', theirs has more garlic. We can recommend charcoal-fired pizzas at:

• Chez Sauveur in the Noailles quarter. First pizzeria in Marseille on rue d'Aubagne by Fabrice Giacalone. Half and half pizza of tomato-emmental and anchovy-tomato with garlic oil.
• La Bonne Mère, in the quartier Vauban near Notre-Dame de la Garde. It's so popular, best to reserve.
• Chez Etienne, in the Panier quarter. No reservations so be prepared to queue for typical pizzas like in Napoli. Nothing fancy with just 2 types : cheese or tomato-anchovy or go 'mi-mi' like Chez Sauveur and have half and half.
• IT - Italian Trattoria next to the Vieux Port. We hear service is slow but when we go, we've been lucky. Ticket system for pizza or pasta stations with excellent Tiramisu, also made on the premises (so much in view it's difficult to resist!)

Marseille Bakeries & Confectioners

I can't possibly mention all the bakeries here as you'll find many super ones. You can't go wrong around the central 6th in Castellane around Rue Paradis. Our preferred ones are:

• Maison Riederer - Pastries, chocolate and tearoom (Av de Mazargues, 8th).
• Au Pain d'Autrefois - great selections of breads (rue Paradis).
• Marrou pâtisserie - frankly, it's torture passing it each time to visit family. I still need to try all of their incredible cakes, so please do help me! (rue Jean Mermoz).
• Pain Pan ! - bakery that sounds like pang-pong, the sound of kids' mimicking the sound of a fire engine. Bit of useless Frenchie stuff for you.
• La Pépite - specialises in lactose and gluten free breads and pastries. Convenient stop before your walk up to le Panier.
• Oh Faon ! - artisanal vegan cakes and pastries in Castellane 6th.
• Café Edmond - a salon de thé tearoom, popular with the locals in Castellane 6th with excellent cakes.
• Délices Lamarque - a treasure trove selected by Joel Patouillard, Meilleur Ouvrier de France, of Provençal and local specialities from Calissons, nougats and chocolate.

Marseillais Specialities to Try

• Navettes - these dry biscuits perfumed with orange blossom are traditionally served during the Chandeleur in place of French pancakes (crêpes). Made with flour, eggs, sugar, butter and olive oil, try them at Navettes des Accoules, Panier. I don't have a good photo of them as, personally, I find them too dry.
• Chichi frégi - soft spiraled doughnuts of 30cm long are rolled in sugar and often coated in cream or chocolate.
• Calissons d'Aix - a must-try if you like marzipan. Head to the creators since 1920, le Roy René from Aix-en-Provence in the 2nd, near the vieux-port.
• Want to take part in pastry workshops? Then head to Labo&Gato.

Marseille's Drinks: Pastis, Water and Coffee

If anise flavour is your thing, then try the local tipple, Pastis. Made with additional liquorice root flavour, this white (40-45% alcohol) apéritif is diluted with water, turning it cloudy. It's normally mixed with local tap water, which is totally safe to drink.

As the amount of water varies according to taste, it's easy to spot those who prefer their pastis than water! It's a refreshing drink in a heatwave served with ice - even if ice cubes are not the local norm (or we perhaps just have an abnormal family!)
Try adding a splash of Pastis in recipes for a hint of anise. It's great in chorizo risotto with seared scallops or even a cherry clafoutis.

Coffee torrefactors in Noailles - huge selection of house-roasted coffee beans from spicy, fruity to light or aromatic. Also sells local specialities and teas (avenue du Prado, 8th).

7 More Things to Do in Marseille

1. Explore the Old Port

There's now a new farmers' market at the Vieux-Port every Sunday morning. Enjoy a variety of market fruits and vegetables.

Christmas is also a good time to see the festive Marché de Noël, often with live music. Above all, see the huge handmade collections of Santons de Provence, the special ceramic figurines featured in typical religious crêches. There are many more Christmas markets in the town centre to taste mulled wine (vin chaud), Corsican charcuterie and roasted chestnuts.

2. Visit Notre-Dame de la Garde Basilica

Visit Notre-Dame de la Garde Basilica, Marseille's landmark looking on to the city with great panoramic views. It's particularly impressive to visit during December to see the traditional nativity scenes. Our kids loved it growing up - with les Santons de Provence, with illuminated and moving Provençal windmills and fountains. What's more, entrance is free!

3. Take a Boat to the Château d'If

Perhaps the biggest attraction from the Old Port is for Alexandre Dumas fans of the Count of Monte Cristo, as boats take you out to Marseille's popular island. Built by King François I in 1516, the historic site of Château d'If served as a fortress. But it soon became more famous as the prison, the French Alcatraz, survived by the Dumas' character, Edmond Dantes.

4. Stroll Around the Panier Quarter

Marseille's oldest quartier, le Panier, is spread on a steep hill and popular for its street art. You'll love this area for exploring its quirky boutiques and restaurants, all with an arty vibe. See more on eating places above.

5. Explore Vallon des Auffes Fishing Village

Nearest Catalans beach, don't miss Vallon des Auffes. This charming fishing village is a hidden gem behind a bridge and is home to many fabulous seafood restaurants.

6. Marseille's Beaches

Marseille has many beaches, including the central Plage du Prado which umbrellas many more smaller ones (pun intended, can't resist). Plage des Catalans is on the furthest west side, nearest Vallon des Auffes, while La Pointe Rouge is east, nearest les Calanques.

If you love outdoor activities, then I'd also recommend a nearby trip to the natural park of les Calanques. Great for picnics, it's a quick ride by car and accessible by bus (23 and 22S - see local bus details). The views are stunning with many more hidden beaches, often accessible only by boat.

7. Taste Some Chocolate - from Bean to Bar

If you're a fan of chocolate from bean to bar, then head to La Baleine à Cabosse on rue Paradis. They roast and conch their own beans to produce a huge range of chocolates; just the smell walking in the door is enough to bring out the chocoholic in you. Fabulous French hot chocolate and mendiants slabs to Moka bars and, our favourite, with sesame.

Chocolaterie De Puyricard - since 1967, this has been a Provençal chocolate institution, created by Belgians Marie-Anne et Jan-Guy Roelandts. No Marseillais has a festive season without them!

More chocolate - in the 6th arrondissement, head to la boutique du chocolat with its art gallery.

Plan Your Trip: Travel Tips

Marseille isn't that far from Paris by train, the best way to get there from the Capital.

• TGV (high-speed) trains are frequent from Paris's Gare de Lyon to Marseille's Gare St Charles. Train times vary but, on average, takes over 3 hours.
• Airport: Flights are also frequent between Paris-Marseille, taking 1.5 hours.
• By Car: This can take anything from 8-13 hours, depending on the route you take. The quickest includes autoroute tolls, while the longest is more sustainable. I recommend stops in Dijon and/or Lyon.

The city has an efficient metro, easily accessible from the St Charles station, as well as buses and trams. Between April to September lanavette boat service is a good way of getting around. For more, see local transport details and maps.

Is Marseille Safe?

As with any large city, be streetwise. Marseille is safe to visit but, like Paris, be vigilant in crowded areas. Don't leave smartphones on restaurant terrace tables.

Conclusion

The author, Jill Colonna, who has been visiting Marseille since 1993, shares her ultimate travel guide with tips on where to go and what to eat in the oldest city in France. As the world's largest commercial port between Europe, North Africa and the Middle East, it has a diverse culinary scene. Don't miss specialities such as Bouillabaisse and Pastis. There are many things to do in Marseille, by foot, metro, tram, boat or bus, including exploring markets, trying local food and visiting historic sites.

Note: none of the above establishments mentioned are sponsored.