What to Do in Aix-en-Provence: Food Guide to the French Capital of Calissons

What to do in Aix-en-Provence - Around Food

Since 1409, Aix is an historic university town and so the ambience has a young student vibe. (My Mother-in-law studied French literature here and so we enjoy hearing her stories!) It's a photographer's dream in the pedestrian old town - with old fountains and cobbled streets to trendy shops and estate agents showing hefty prices of grand properties here.

Walk in Cézanne's footsteps following the bronze paved 'C'-tiles. They lead to museums dedicated to the French painter, plenty art galleries - and Cézanne's home, Jas de Bouffan, re-opened in summer 2025 following renovations.

Grab a free mini guide at the tourist office to follow the painter's life and work in Aix-en-Provence.

Our scene is where the food is and the café vibe is bustling! Whether catching up with friends over a drink or watching the world go by solo, there's something for all budgets.

Lately, we've tried out more of the Provençal restaurants, wine bars, pizzerias, pâtisseries and ice cream to hot chocolate in the winter season. In summer, grab a seat in the shade of a plane tree and nibble on calissons from any of the famous confectionary shops. Don't forget to bring a water bottle.

What are Navettes? Provençal Cookies

This boat-shaped crisp biscuit (pronounced 'bis-cwee') or cookie has been a Provençal gastronomic emblem since 1781. With its unique flavour fragranced with orange blossom, its shape evokes the Saintes Maries landing in Marseille (their arrival is said to have started the Christian faith in Gaul).

Not to be confused with the free electric navettes that whizz through the old town. Instead, they make me want to walk everywhere, just to work up an appetite!

More Famous Cakes

Speaking of cookies and cakes, you'll find bakery counters selling just Madeleines, for example (Christophe Madeleines), delicious Portuguese custard tarts at Le Pastel Café and now Weibel chouquettes on rue Gaston de Saporta, with legendary queues at each one on Saturdays. For Japanese pâtisserie with a tea salon, check out Maison Mooks.

Perhaps the most impressive queues are found outside the Les Petits Chaudrons. If you manage to get in there, leave a comment and tell us how it was. Each time we don't have the patience but Arlette Grimm has made this a unique concept of sweet witch's cakes, recipes and shop in one.

Rue d'Italie: The Italian Quarter in Aix-en-Provence

At the end of this foodie street, rue d'Italie, you'll find mostly Italian boutiques. Further along, they're more interspersed with French shops. From any of the bakeries, try a pissaladière, a pizza-like tart from the south, topped with caramelised onions, anchovies and olives on a bread-like dough.

• Maison Cangina - Pâtisserie and tea salon
• Bocca Piena - Glaces et pâtisseries. Great gelato ice cream and Venchi chocolate.
• Aux Pâtes Fraîches - fresh pasta with an incredible Italian épicerie fine.
• Signorini Tartufi - for the truffle connoisseur.
• Boulangerie Jacob's - traditional French bakery.
• La Chambre aux Confitures - jams by Lise Bienaimé. (I love her name, meaning well-loved, much like preserves!)
• Hat's - popular bakery and pâtisserie with the locals (more around town).
• Away from the Italian quarter, for artisanal pizza, try Manlios on rue Jacques de la Roque.

Aix Markets

Bustling with the freshest Provençal produce - from Luberon chèvre cheese (try a salade de chèvre chaud, hot goat cheese salad) and olives, to garrigue honey and lavender. Try these lavender baked apricots for a taste!

• Place Richelme - Every morning.
• Place Verdun - Mornings on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays.
• Place Prêcheurs - as above.
• Place de l'Hôtel de Ville - Saturdays for the gorgeous flower market.

Typical fruit and vegetables are listed on our farmers' market guides:
tomatoes, garlic, fresh herbs, apricots, melons, peaches, Menton lemons, figs and strawberries to name just a few.

Best Restaurants in Aix: Where and What to Eat

There are so many to choose from in Aix but for best value, gourmet restaurants, here are some of our picks. Our criteria is a good wine list, great food with fresh produce, friendly service and good ambience.

• Les Galinas: this is one restaurant split into 2 by the street, near the Cathedral. Run by 3 brothers, they servetypical Provençal dishes in a rustic setting. Try the Daube beef stew, strong in flavour marinaded in red wine. It's the Provençal equivalent to the Boeuf Bourguignon, served with mashed potato and finished with olive oil. First try the sardines from northern Spain, les sardinettes, extra small that are not really fishy, just served with bread. Make Mediterranean-style roasted fresh sardines.

Best Hot Chocolate

As we often come to Aix more in the winter months to visit family, I love grabbing the best chocolat chaud I can find. Believe me, you'll appreciate it all the more with the chilling winds of the Provençal Mistral! Here are my favourites:

• Weibel - the queues at this institution in Aix on Place Richelme are for good reason. Not just French hot chocolate, but fabulous cakes, pastries and, well, calissons! When I was last there, they had trays stacked of excellent galettes des rois.
• Le Grillon - another stellar address on Aix's main street and the place to be seen.

For a British tea shop, there's even le Comptoir Anglais des Thés since 1980.

Where to Stay

We particularly love Le Grand Hôtel Roi René (MGallery Centre) for the best 4-star value stay in Aix. Breakfasts are buffet style with a choice of hot dish and wide range of goodies, including calissons from le Roi Réné and navettes. We love their healthy fresh fruit options, chia pudding, pancakes, crêpes and that it's served until quite late.

How to Get There: Paris to Aix-en-Provence

As we live in Paris, the easiest and quickest way to get to Aix is by TGV train. The TGV station is out of town but there are frequent shuttle buses that go direct to Aix centre. Spot Cézanne's famous Mont St-Victoire from the train platform!

• From Paris to Aix-en-Provence:
  - by TGV train - 3 hours from Paris Gare de Lyon.
  - by car - over 7 hours via A6 and A7.
• From Marseille, 20km (30 miles) south of Aix. Fastest by TGV train (11 mins) or 30 mins by car.