Lyon's Best Pâtisseries, Bakeries and Sweet Specialities

What are Lyon's Pink Pralines?

Classic French pralines didn't start in Lyon. They were first created in Montargis in 1636 when Clément Lassagne, chef to Marshal du Plessis-Praslin, accidentally caramelised roasted almonds in sugar. Named praslines after his master, the recipe was later preserved by Léon Mazet in 1903 with Maison Mazet.

Lyon gave pralines their modern identity in the 19th century by coating the nuts in sugar tinted with red or pink food colouring, then baking them into local icons like brioche Saint-Genix (see my classic brioche recipe to make one) and tarte aux pralines roses. Today, you'll find them everywhere - piled into shop windows along Rue Saint-Jean, sold in packets to take home, or crushed and sprinkled over restaurant desserts.

Les Bugnes de Lyon

Another Lyon classic you can't miss: Bugnes, the city's carnival fritters. These flat, crisp, rectangular doughnuts are light but indulgent, fried then dusted generously with icing sugar. Messy to eat but so moreish.

Traditionally popular at Mardi-Gras, they've been part of Lyon's food culture since as early as 1532 by Rabelais in his book, Pantagruel as a Lyonnais speciality (seen at the Rabelais museum in the Loire.) Today, you'll find them piled high in most bakeries during carnival season.

What's the Difference Between a Bakery, a Boulangerie and Pâtisserie?

In France, a boulangerie is legally required to bake bread on site. A pâtisserie is where certified pastry chefs create cakes and desserts. Most shops today combine these as a Boulangerie-Pâtisserie.

A chocolaterie, on the other hand, specialises in chocolate. Many pastry chefs are also chocolatiers, so you'll often find pâtisserie-chocolaterie. What you won't find is a bakery and chocolaterie under the same roof - each tends to keep its craft separate.

Pâtisseries and Bakeries in Lyon

So, what are the most delicious pastries in Lyon? Between praline brioches, pink praline tarts, bugnes, cakes and macarons, the city has plenty of sweet icons. Here are the bakeries and pâtisseries not to miss. If you don't have time to walk around the City, then stop at les Halles Paul Bocuse, as some are under the same roof.

Pralus Lyon

The Praluline is a cultural reference in Lyon. Invented by Auguste Pralus in 1955, this brioche stuffed with pink pralines is legendary. His son François Pralus has expanded the legacy with bean-to-bar chocolate and, of course, pink praline macarons for the sweet-toothed.

Sébastien Bouillet

With nine boutiques in Lyon alone, Bouillet is a household name and part of the Relais Desserts group. With the most popular bakery in Lyon's old town on rue Saint Jean, la Boulangerie du Palais, it's hard to miss with a window in pink! Try also slices of cake by the metre at Goûter or the Tarte Saint-Honoré with salted caramel - one of the best in France!

I love his macarons (try café) and his Maca'Lyon (a caramel macaron dipped in chocolate) was the first to be totally dipped and disguised in chocolate.

Mariller, Pâtissier Rêveur

Clément and Pauline Mariller, now with three shops in Lyon, continue their father Bernard's legacy (Le Gourmet de Sèze). Frankly, their Franklin pastry is sublime and worth the detour, discovered recently at the station (now 3 boutiques): pistachio praline, raspberry confit and vanilla chantilly in crunchy pastry - perfectly balanced. Even the pastry boxes are rather special.

Richard Sève

Relais Desserts member, chocolatier and pâtissier, did you know that Richard Sève invented the first savoury macaron in France (his foie gras version inspired my savoury macarons, published in my first book in 2010).

He continues to amaze us with his fabulous range of patisserie - both in individual and larger cakes. I loved the Lubéron with a shortcrust base, frangipane and Provencal Bergeron apricots. Otherwise timeless classics worth a try: tarte à la vanille or citron meringué. Delicious tuiles made with finely crushed pink pralines.

Maison Pignol

A Lyonnais institution run by Meilleur Ouvrier de France Jean-Paul Pignol. Expect classics from Paris-Brest to baba au rhum, plus macarons and even a Tarte Ecossaise (Scottish tart).

Dorner Frères

Since 2019, brothers Gauthier and Maxime Dorner have offered lighter, modern takes on French favourites. Don't miss their Brioche Feuilletée Tropézienne or their seasonal sorbets.

Maison Jolivet

In Croix-Rousse, Jolivet's rustic breads are just as beloved as their pastries. The Merveilleux de la Croix-Rousse (meringue, buttercream, nougatine) is a speciality, alongside their praline tartlets.

À La Marquise

In the historic Saint Jean area, head to this institution for pink praline tarts but also the traditional Bugnes. These powdered sugar doughnut-like treats are seen in most bakeries but particularly worth a mention here.

Maison Flochon

Guillaume Flochon shines with playful chocolate desserts. Try his BB'Choux (mini cream-filled choux) or his Perles de Vaise, domes filled with rich surprises.

Alain Rolancy

More tarte aux pralines at this MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France) address in the Croix-Rousse. Expect inventive recipes - including tomato-basil macarons.

Ô Fournil des Artistes

Next to the Maison de Canuts museum, loved this bakery for their Bugnes and bread in all shapes and sizes.

French Chocolate in Lyon: You'll Melt at the Choice

Lyon also excels in chocolate with some of the finest brands in France.

Valhrona

Just an hour's drive south in Tain-l'Hermitage,Valhrona Cité du Chocolat is a Charlie and the Chocolate Factory French experience in their factory shop. It's difficult to tear my husband away back to the car, though!
(Wine-lovers can finish with a tasting at Chapoutier or Jaboulet nearby.)

Bernachon

Family run since the 1950s and specialise in making their own chocolate from bean to bar. Their legendary "Président" is the house speciality, created in 1975 for president Valéry Giscard-d'Estaing on giving chef Paul Bocuse the award of Légion d'Honneur. It's a chocolate hazelnut praline ganache with candied cherries.

For their Grand Cru chocolate bars, don't leave Lyon without trying their Chuao 55% Venezuela with its taste of dark fruits and toasted almonds. Denise Acabo insisted Bernachon were featured in her chocolate shop in Pigalle, as THE reference for France.

Richard Sève

Richard and Gaëlle Sève's MUSCO Chocolate Museum is a must-visit in Lyon's outskirts, in Limonest. Opened in 2017, visitors can follow the journey from cocoa bean to bar, taste on site, and watch the chocolatiers at work.

Sébastien Bouillet - Chokola

Bouillet isn't just a star in pâtisserie. Like Sève, a member of Relais Desserts, his chocolate creations stand out too. At his concept store Chokola you'll find a mesmerising chocolate wall fountain, Dubaï style (of course!), and 45 records that bring some nostalgia. His lifelike chocolate lipsticks fooled me the first time I saw them years ago! It's a deliciously playful side of Lyon's chocolate scene.

Other chocolate stars: Philippe Bel, Bruno Saladino, Bernard Dufoux.

Cul-Cul la Praline

Yes, there's even a praline drink! Bottled in bright red, it comes with the slogan "Quand on en a plein le cul-cul, on boit la praline." (When you've had enough, you drink praline). We didn't taste it - the name put us off - but perhaps, like Cervelle de Canut cheese spread, it's secretly delicious.

Lyonnais Sweets in Paris

If you can't get to Lyon, then you can still find Voisin's Coussins de Lyon in Paris in the best French sweet shops in Paris.

For a taste of the Praluline, pink praline brioche, Pralus is in rue Rambuteau and on rue Cler around the corner from Rue Saint-Dominique near the Eiffel Tower.

For more, see Lyon's best value Gourmet Restaurants.