Lyon's Best Value Restaurants in 3 Days

Lyon - France's Gastronomic Capital

Lyon may be the third largest city in France after Paris and Marseille but since 1930, continues to earn its reputation as THE French Capital of Gastronomy.

Romans first settled here in 43 BC (then Lugdunum), making it a key trade route between northern and southern Europe. Built around the Rhône and Saône rivers, Lyon's tall buildings squeeze between the imposing Fourvière and Croix-Rousse hills. Imagine bustling Roman commerce with boats trading wine, spices, and especially silk, a local industry thriving since the 15th century.

We began with Vieux Lyon (Lyon's old town), the medieval quarter on the left bank (Saint Georges, Saint Jean, Saint Paul). Climbing the Fourvière Basilica rewards with panoramic views (pick a clear day!), also from the Roman ampitheatre.

Lyon offers museums too - our kids loved the Musée Miniature et Cinéma with movie props and miniatures. History buffs can visit the Guignol Workshop Theatre, birthplace of the iconic Guignol puppets (like Punch & Judy) in 1808. You'll discover them as typical decor in many bouchons or eateries throughout the city.

Lyon's Silk Weavers

For a better idea of Lyon's main industry, head up the "hill that worked" of the Croix-Rousse to visit the silk weavers' museum. The Maison des Canuts (rue d'Ivry) demonstrates how silk was made. Using Jacquard looms, it depicts the deplorable living and working conditions (the workplace was also their living quarters), leading to many uprisings from the 1830s, also penned in Hugo's "Les Misérables".

To get to the museum, we walked from our hotel - assured by Antoine that it was "just up the road". Up was the word, bracing the steep pente or hill of La Montée de la Rochette to the Croix-Rousse plateau. If you have a step-tracking app or bracelet, you'll be proud of such a condensed 10-min climb to merit a taste of the local food!

There are plenty of wonderful bakeries to satisfy your savoury or sweet tooth. There are so many, I've written a second post, on Lyon's patisseries (update coming very soon).

What are the Bouchons Lyonnais?

Lyon's star attraction? The Bouchons Lyonnais, which even has its own association! A traditional bouchon is a cosy, welcoming home-from-home, almost as if sitting in someone's own dining room - often filled with memorabilia, trinkets and local produce.

Originally catering to silk workers with pre-lunch meals, the Mâchon Lyonnaise from 8-10am, they evolved in the early 20th century thanks to "Mères Lyonnaises." These strong women, out of work after WWI, opened their own "bouchons" - cosy restaurants with simple yet refined food. Think Beaujolais or Côtes du Rhône wine in pots, local ingredients (terroir cooking from-the-land) with lots of bacon.

Who were the Restaurant Mothers of Lyon?

La Mère Fillioux was the first to gain a reputation for her cooking. Following on was
la Mère Brazier, so popular, she opened a second restaurant, passing on her tricks to a certain legendary Lyonnais chef Paul Bocuse. In 1933 she was the first woman to be awarded THREE Michelin stars - and simultaneously for both restaurants!

What Food is Lyon Famous For? A Typical Bouchon Menu

What's a typical Bouchon Menu? Expect a bowl of grattons, fried and seasoned pork fat with your apéritif drink (take this as a warning, as this is rather an acquired taste!)

Typical entrées (first course, starter) include saucisson sausages or the popular sausisson brioché with a green salad, Salade Lyonnaise (lettuce, bacon, croutons and more), Oeufs en Meurette (poached eggs cooked in Burgundy red wine, onions and topped with croutons), and French cheese spread, la Cervelle de Canut.

The most typical main dish (plat) is the Quenelle. Formed into a sausage but made with bread and either chicken, veal or fish, most popular is the Quenelle de Brochet, made of pike and served in a Nantua or Finanicière sauce. It puffs up in the oven and is pretty filling, washed down with a white Beaujolais or Mâcon.
Mère Brigousse's quenelle speciality isn't shaped like sausages but 'Venus nipples' (les tétons de Vénus)!

Dessert usually comes in some kind of pink form, with Pralines Roses as main feature: from Tarte aux Pralines, with a sticky pink garniture of pralines roses melted with cream. But the real classics that were served by the Mères Lyonnais were good old French tarte aux pommes and île flottante (floating meringue in crème anglaise custard) - again, often topped with crushed pink pralines.

Our Favourite Bouchons Lyonnais

On previous trips to Lyon, I've headed to Chez Hugon. It's great fun, especially if you arrive when local musicians pop in and the owner joins in. Last time I popped to the loo, they gave me the key attached to a large bone!

We've tried out more and recommend Chabert & Fils (like a museum!), Bistrot Abel, Bouchon des Filles and Daniel et Denise with chef Joseph Voila, Meilleur Ouvrier de France. Les Lyonnais is another excellent bouchon with a super ambience (and open weekends).

Many bouchons typically shut over the weekend (traditionally they were for the workers) but some stay open. Check their websites for details.

Best Value Gourmet Lyon Restaurants

Lyon's traditional bouchons aren't the only great eateries. Our favourite brasseries are worth booking and easier to find reservations in August when most restaurants close.

• Paul Bocuse - his legendary Michelin-starred restaurant in the north of Lyon is currently celebrating its 100th year. However, his various brasseries around the city are great value to experience the Bocuse legend with a daily set menu (menu du jour) such as Brasserie L'Est. The others? Nord, Sud, Ouest ...
• Brasserie Georges - another institution in Lyon since 1836 serving craft beer to accompany their typical dishes in a vast art deco dining room. Daily specials and traditional fare.
• Brasserie des Brotteaux - excellent food and friendly service in a beautiful Art Nouveau setting. Frankly our favourite.

Lyon's Bistros and Michelin Restaurants

Smaller bistro-style addresses with up-and-coming young chefs are excellent value with limited choice menus. Smaller menus are perhaps not suited for fussy eaters but great to try new dishes you wouldn't normally think of ordering.

• Le Jean-Moulin (45 rue de Sèze, 69006 Lyon)
  Young chef Grégoire Baratier was first awarded "Les Toques Blanches Lyonnaises 2017" amongst an impressive line-up of around 50 like-minded creative chefs and Meilleurs Ouvriers de France just in Lyon alone. Although he learned the ropes from local chefs such as Paul Bocuse and Anne-Sophie Pic, his cuisine bursts with his own personal style.
  It's popular, so booking is essential as a Michelin 'Bib Gourmand' since 2012. With a 3 or 4-course menu, always inventive with dessert combinations that work. Take an iced vin jaune parfait brûlée with a subtle cèpe mousse.
• Arsenic (132 rue Pierre Corneille, Lyon) didn't initially convince us by its name, somehow.  We were imagining all sorts of weird and wonderful dangerous potions appearing at the table, smoking through bowls under some molecular gastronomy spell.
  Instead, Arsenic is more of a concept that highlights the latest talents of young chefs making waves in Lyon's gourmet world. Having gone through the ranks with Christian Têtedoie (Meilleur Ouvrier de France - another fabulous Michelin restaurant with a view of Lyon from the top of the hill), we loved the surprising dishes from Benjamin Milliard when we visited - even the amuse-bouche of cauliflower and Jerusalem artichokes was sublime. Cod and pears? Why not?
• Maison Moly - it's a restaurant bistronomique, with various set menus including surprise dishes. Interesting flavour associations (blackberries and salmon), meats superbly cooked. Excellent value wines suggested, such as a vin de France 2023 of Roussane, Marsanne and Voignier - bliss!

Is It Customary to Tip in Lyon Restaurants?

Tipping is entirely at your discretion. In Lyon, and the rest of France, bills include the service charge. So, while a tip is always welcome for exceptional service, it is already included.

What are Lyon's Traboules?

If you're like me and fascinated by historical French doors, you're in for a treat. Behind many of them are secret passageways, called Traboules. The Traboules in Lyon are unique in the world and date back to the Renaissance. Coming from the Latin for "passing through", there are 350 of these secret narrow passages in the city.

They were created as direct paths for the local silk workers (les Canuts) to transport their fabrics protected from the rain - so to avoid 'weaving in and out' between their workshops and the crowded streets (can't resist a pun!). There are 24 traboules in Rue Saint Jean alone! Our friend, Jean-Paul (owner of a gift shop there) led us to Number 7 as a short-cut to our restaurant, leading us directly on the Quai Romain Rolland.

I recommend the experience of trabouling. It's even a French verb, to Traboule: so, j'ai traboulé! Avez-vous traboulez?

Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse

There are 40 markets in Lyon but you can't come to the gastronomic French capital without a visit to Les Halles de Lyon - Paul Bocuse. If taking the car, stock up with local goodies before the drive back to Paris. You'll see the legendary chef Bocuse's portrait everywhere in the City - with a giant mural just opposite.

How to Get to Lyon from Paris

Whether a quick ride by train from Paris or a more leisurely drive south, Lyon is an ideal stop-off en route south to Provence and the Riviera.

• By Train: only takes about 2 hours on the high speed TGV trains from Gare de Lyon.
• By Car: 5 hours direct via the A6 autoroute (with tolls). We suggest a foodie stop in the town of Dijon - it offers more than mustard and Beaune (post coming).
  Alternatively, take the longer route (7 hours) via A77/N7 with foodie stops in Aubigny-sur-Nère (Scottish-French alliance town) plus Chavignol and Sancerre for wine and goat's cheese.