Saint-Germain-en-Laye Château Roof Visit

A castle day trip from Paris isn't just Versailles. A Saint-Germain-en-Laye Château Roof Visit offers a unique opportunity to discover the town's history and enjoy amazing views.

In just an hour, it's a fabulous way to discover its royal significance, hosting 29 Kings and Queens of France before Versailles became the official residence.

Following on from this introduction to Saint-Germain-en-Laye, castle rooftop visits run between May to September. Although conducted in French, 2 English tours are now planned during the Olympics. Details are at the end of this post.

As I live close nearby, let me be your local guide to your self-guided tour.

Brief History of the 2 Castles

There were two castles: the current pentagon-shaped Château Vieux and the Château Neuf. The latter newer castle was built under Henri II, finished by Henri IV and dismantled under Louis XVI and his brother, future Charles X. The Château Neuf is one of the rare castles dismantled before the French Revolution, with the bricks and stone recycled by the Saint-Germanois.

Today, the present Château Vieux is home to the National Archaeological Museum. A model in the museum gives us an idea of both castles' grandeur, terraces and gardens which, at the time, cascaded all the way down to the Seine (now the town of Le Pecq). Today the castle's inner courtyard is one of the Renaissance's most beautiful.

What Can You See From the Castle's Rooftop?

A visit on the castle's rooftop gives a wonderful panorama of the Seine Valley.
At certain angles, there's even a skyline view of Paris from La Défense and Sacré Coeur. Look carefully, and catch sight of the Eiffel Tower, poking out behind the Mont Valérien.

Just by visiting the Castle roof in the space of 30 minutes, we gathered nuggets of delicious history as we walked around the chimneys.

The fortified castle originated in 1122, when Louis VI le Gros built on the plateau of Laye. Only the dungeon (the square tower on the left of the museum entrance) retains the original shape, with a Campanile tower stuck to it, much like that of the Louvre in Paris.

Louis IX (Saint Louis) completed the castle and by 1238 had a chapel built, the only part of the castle to survive the fire during the Hundred Years' War from 1337 between Philippe VI Valois and the Black Prince. It was Charles V that re-built the castle by 1367, adjoining the Gothic Chapel.

Saint Louis Chapel and Plums

Louis IX's Gothic Chapel was probably good practise for his Saint Chapelle in Paris built ten years later, constructed on much the same lines.

It's here that the story starts to get deliciously interesting at Saint-Germain-en-Laye, as it's where François I married la Reine Claude in 1514. Since then, the rosace was filled in, as the banquet hall he added on was right behind it.

Did you know that the Greengage plum is known as Reine Claude in French? It's named after François I's Queen, as she adored them so much.

François I at Saint-Germain-en-Laye

This was François I's favourite residence. He loved the castle so much, he turned Charles V's fortress into a Renaissance palace.

King Francis I is said to have spent 1000 days at Saint-Germain-en-Laye which, considering the sumptuous castles in the Loire Valley and Fontainbleau, is quite something!

Spot François I's symbols on the roof: his crowning initial with the Fleur de Lys carved in stone and flaunted on the imposing chimneys high above the town. Plus his salamander, especially on the enormous banquet hall chimney inside.

François I's son, Henri II continued with more of the building work, including the new castle which was completed under Henri IV. During the reigns of both Henri IV and Louis XIII, the present Château Vieux was left to royal children and their household staff.

Birthplace and Favourite Castle of Louis XIV (Before Versailles)

The Sun King, Louis XIV was born in Saint-Germain's Château Neuf, 5 September 1638. All that's left of the "new" castle is the red-bricked Pavillon, now part of the Hotel Henri IV that looks over the Seine to Paris.
This hotel boasts a couple of other births from the culinary world: soufflé potatoes and the legendary Béarnaise sauce.

I was lucky to see the original birth and baptism papers from the local archives during an enlightening conference of Louis XIV in Saint-Germain-en-Laye, thanks to our local historian, François Boulet.

The baptism took place in the Château's St Louis Chapel when Louis (le Dauphin) was 4 years old in the presence of his parents, Louis XIII and Anne of Austria. It was such a long awaited royal birth that 30,000 bells peeled all around France to celebrate!

Following Louis XIV marriage in 1660, he moved into the Château Vieux, breaking with tradition with the new castle.

From his reign in 1666, Louis XIV spent a staggering quarter of his reign at the castle before eventually moving to his newly embellished Versailles in 1682. In Saint-Germain, it wasn't merely for hunting but for the Court, where the greater part of his powerful and personal decisions were made.

We often just associate Versailles with Louis XIV but we can frequently forget just how important Saint-Germain was for the the Sun King and the court. It's here where he learned to dance and where Lully performed many of his premières in the giant ballroom.

Improvements were made to the castle by Jules Hardouin Mansart and André Le Nôtre designed the French gardens and the vast terrace overlooking the Seine before his other wee gardening job at Versailles.

James VII of Scotland - Exiled at the Castle

When Louis XIV and his court permanently moved to Versailles on 20 April 1682, the Sun King 'lent' the present Château Vieux to his cousin. It was none other than James VII of Scotland (II of England) while the Stuarts were in exile from Britain during the Glorious Revolution.
He stayed here with his family for 13 years until his death in 1701. His tomb is in the church opposite the castle.

Many of the Jacobites stayed in Saint-Germain-en-Laye until the French Revolution and finally left in 1793. For a brief summary of the Jacobites, I guess you could watch Outlander! Did you know that Saint-Germain is twinned with Ayr in Scotland?

The Château: From French Revolution to WWII

During the French Revolution the castle was first used as a prison (well, that dungeon is handy). It was then a hospital for the treatment of contagious diseases, a cavalry school under Napoleon Bonaparte, barracks then a military prison.

On Queen Victoria's visit to Saint-Germain-en-Laye in 1855, eager to learn more of its British past with the Stuarts, she urged Napoleon III to save the castle from abandon and so it was restored.

In 1862 Napoleon III created the Museum of Celtic & Gallo Roman Antiquities as part of the castle. The following year it was listed as a historical monument. Restoration work was carried out by Eugène Millet, who studied under Viollet-le-Duc who restored Notre Dame.

The Peace Treaty of Saint-Germain-en-Laye was signed at the castle on 10 September 1919, officially ending WWI with Austria.

The Castle was used as Headquarters by the German Army in France during the German Occupation (1940-1944), as was the Château d'Hennemont, which is now the Lycée International.

Many German bunkers are reminders throughout Saint-Germain of around 18,000 soldiers occupying the military town. Thankfully, and astonishingly, Saint-Germain wasn't bombarded by the allies. There are two bunkers right next to the castle in between the hôtel particuliers or mansion houses.

Today, the castle houses the National Archaeology Museum. It includes the world's largest collection of prehistoric art, illustrating the life and inventions of men from their origins to the merovingian period. Furniture is replaced by countless exhibition cabinets, showing a fascinating insight into life to the middle ages.

What Else to do in Saint-Germain-en-Laye?

Now that you've enjoyed a visit to the rooftops, it's time to come down and check out the town! Don't miss the following:

• The farmers' market - Tuesdays, Fridays & Sunday morning (the latter biggest).
• The quaint shops - Even the several cheese shops alone are worth a stop. Check out Foucher's interior and step back to 1923 when it opened and my favourite, la ferme Saint-Suzanne, on rue au Pain (appropriately Bread Street!)
• Walk in the extensive castle grounds (it's free), including the long terrace built by Le Nôtre overlooking Paris. Walk through the beautiful forest (all well signposted);
• Visit the church opposite the castle, where James VII Scotland is buried;
• Claude Debussy Museum, the composer's birthplace at N° 38 rue au Pain (temporarily closed).
• Maurice Denis Museum
• The Fête des Loges in July-August is one of Europe's biggest fairs. Shuttles run from the RER station.
• Enjoy my self-guided chocolate & patisserie tour - with top chocolateries, pâtisseries for taste of the local and French specialities.
• Just outside town, visit the Château de Monte Cristo, home of Alexandre Dumas in Port Marly. Details on my article, Monte Cristo and Dumas' Culinary Passion.

Tickets and How to Get There from Paris

Saint-Germain-en-Laye Château Roof Visits: Open 2 May - 30 September.

• 2 visits are in English: 10.30am Saturday 20 July and Sunday 15 September 2024.
  Duration: 1 hour (€11/free for under 26s). For safety reasons, no children permitted under 12 and groups are limited to 13 people.
• Otherwise weekday and weekend visits are possible in French only.
• Tickets available either directly at the Château Museum or
  online via the Office de Tourisme.

Château museum: Musée d'Archéologie nationale de Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Place Charles de Gaulle, 78105 Saint-Germain-en-Laye
Billetterie/Ticket Office: Tel 01-39.10.13.22
www.musee-archeologienationale.fr

Paris to Saint-Germain-en-Laye

Only 20 km west, this makes for an ideal day trip from Paris with a short 30 minute train-ride. Take the red RER A line direction 'ouest' to the terminus at Saint-Germain-en-Laye, just opposite the château.

Disclaimer: This post is not sponsored. As a local voluntary ambassadrice, I'm proud of where we live and to introduce new ideas for your day trips from Paris.

This post was first published 23 May 2019 but is now completely updated.