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    Home • Blog Posts • French Food Guides • Food Travel From Paris

    Renoir's Chatou and Carrières near Paris

    Published: Dec 1, 2018 · Modified: Nov 16, 2024 by Jill Colonna14 Comments

    Want to avoid the Parisian tourist crowds and venture out of the city for something a bit different?  Join me for an armchair walk near Paris. This Renoir Tour between Chatou and Carrières-sur-Seine is a wonderful walk along by the River Seine when the weather is as beautiful as this - and expect a troglodyte surprise!

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres

    Only 10 km west of Paris, Chatou is remarkably quick to get to by RER A, the express commuter train. In just 20 minutes, a few visiting friends have been delighted to discover les Yvelines. It is such a breath of fresh air. So, what's better than taking one of the four Impressionists' walks in the area, compiled by the Office de Tourism?

    Their Renoir Tour lasts about 1h30. Here's our map at the ready so let's do it together now. Sitting comfortably?

    Renoir Tour Chatou - Carrieres
    Part of the boucles (buckle) de Seine, following the Impressionists

    Renoir Tour: Chatou to Carrières-sur-Seine

    The Renoir Walk starts at the Hameau Fournaise, situated on the Impressionists' Island on the Seine in Chatou looking over to Reuil Malmaison. There are a few buildings, notably the Fournaise Restaurant and Fournaise Museum. This houses temporary exhibitions and a permanent collection of what life resembled at the end of the 19th century.

    It's a time when bourgeois Parisians and artists were attracted outside Paris by les Guingettes, the good life on the banks of the Seine - drinking, eating simple, hearty food and dancing - thanks to the new railway line that brought them to Chatou.

    renoir tour chatou carrieres

    Renoir's Le Déjeuner des Canotiers

    Pierre-August Renoir was a regular at the Restaurant Fournaise in the summer, painting a few portraits of the owner's daughter, Alphonsine.

    During the summer of 1879, it's here that Renoir met Aline Charigot who became his wife. She figures in perhaps his most famous painting, "Le Déjeuner des Canotiers", painted in 1880.

    Renoir tour Chatou Carrieres

    It never ceases to amaze me that Renoir and his friends were here.  There, on Renoir's famous balcony under the orange-striped awnings. Looking up at it, it's as if we can hear the laughter and the clinking of wine glasses echoing along the Seine.

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres

    It doesn't stop there. Just a few metres away is another billboard showing us the other Renoir masterpiece painted in 1881, "Les Canotiers à Chatou". Next door, the boating workshop is worth a visit, as they prepare the same boats. Just smell the wood and the varnish!

    Renoir tour chatou carrieres

    Sadly the restaurant doesn't open for teatime so I tend to bring my own box of macarons with me! Now the actual 4km walk begins by crossing over the bridge, past Notre Dame church and a walk right down to the Seine along the pretty Quai du Nymphée.

    Pass the Barrage de Chatou, the hydroelectric dam. This feat of engineering was re-constructed in 2013. In the distance are the locks for the barge traffic plus a fish ladder. Keep your eyes out for some magnificent birds.

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres

    Making the most of the glorious birch yellows and golds along the walk, the view over to the Impressionist Island includes the club-house of the 9-hole golf Ile Fleurie. Thankfully the Seine levels have gone down since I was last there, as I tend to shoot most of my balls in the river!

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres Sur Seine Walk

    Carrières-sur-Seine and Mushrooms

    Turn left into the Parc de la Vallière, listed as one of the prettiest gardens in France. Designed by Le Nôtre, it took its name from Louis XIV's favourite mistress, who stayed in Carrières-sur-Seine from 1661 for 9 years.

    Renoir Tour secret walks just outside Paris
    The park in summer at Carrieres, inspiring Monet's painting - Secret Paris

    At the entrance to the park, is the billboard showing the exact location of Monet's painting, Carrières-Saint-Denis (1878) in the Musée d'Orsay.

    Renoir Tour Chatou to Carrieres sur Seine

    Carrières-sur-Seine was previously known as Carrières-Saint-Denis, as the rocks that were used to build the royal chapel of Saint-Denis came from Carrières. It's possible to visit the Carrières, although this is currently only 3 times a year. Thankfully I took part in the visit very recently so I'll post it soon before the next French tour.

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres

    Why mushrooms? Because the carrières were also used as Champignonnières. Caves are perfect for mushroom-growing and, although they don't grow as many mushrooms here now, local mushroom producers are not far away and sell their excellent fresh champignons blonds, full of flavour, at our local markets in les Yvelines.

    Speaking of mushrooms, have you tried these recipes yet and seen the mushroom market page?

    • Mushroom Cappuccino
    • mushroom truffle savoury macaron filling
    • Blanquette de Veau?
    Renoir tour Chatou Carrieres sur Seine

    The majestic Mairie sits at the top of the park. Locals from Carrières are called Carillons (masculine) or Carillonnes (feminine), which translate into "Chimes" and "Ringing," respectively.

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres sur Seine

    Troglodyte Houses Near Paris

    This is where this walk took on new meaning recently. During a discussion with my friend, Emilie at the Saint-Germain Boucles-de-Seine Tourism office, I realised that for years I'd completely missed a little street just across from the park and the Mairie.

    Follow the little lane of Rue Victor Hugo and the house at N°14 shows us a first glimpse of les maisons troglodytes, houses built into the limestone.

    Renoir Walk Chatou Carrieres Cave Houses

    Following the lane further emits a relatively spooky ambience.

    These mysterious caves echo Medieval times when the first habitants settled while looking for stone for the eventual gothic buildings constructed in Paris.

    Renoir Tour Secret Paris

    I wonder if we can open that door?

    No doubt is has centuries of stories to tell.

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres

    The curious built-in rock dwellings serve as cellars, caves, barns or garages.  Just walking around, however, it's not that obvious when everything is closed. Silent. Muffled.

    Secret Paris Renoir Tour Walk Along Seine

    Imagine that this is just 10 km and about 20 minutes by train from central Paris?

    Renoir tour Chatou Carrieres

    This is my kind of Disneyland.

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres

    Further up the lane is private property but the view across to the Park from rue Victor Hugo is testament as to the Impressionists' love for the area.

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres

    Venture up the hill past the Mairie, the trickling fountain

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres

    and at the top of the steps on Passage de Fanil is another billboard depicting "Le Village" painted by Maurice de Vlaminck.

    Renoir Walk Chatou Carrieres

    Just across the road is a renovated beauty, complete with rose-tangled balcony. Imagine the view over the Seine overlooking the west of Paris and La Défénse?

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres

    By this time I can imagine you're peckish for a French teatime goûter? Venture up to the centre of the village, enjoying all the little lanes and steps.

    renoir tour chatou carrieres

    Simply follow the fragrances of chocolate, tarts, éclairs from Le Carillon Gourmand (Maison Boé). They make macarons just on the weekends so, for the sake of art, I took a coffee éclair (recipe in my book, Teatime in Paris) for you to enjoy in the park before returning back to Chatou.

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres

    Follow that barge and continue back on the same walkway along by the Seine.

    Renoir Tour Chatou Carrieres

    How to Get There

    RER Line A (red) from Paris to Chatou (direction Ouest, Saint-Germain-en-Laye).
    For more information on the area, boat rides on the Seine etc. visit the Saint-Germain Boucles de Seine Tourism Office in Saint-Germain-en-Laye.

    Renoir Walk Chatou Carrieres
    Pin me for later - or keep this a secret!

     

     

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    Jill Colonna standing in a French patisserie lab holding a giant whisk over an oversized mixer bowl

    Bonjour - I'm Jill

    As a cookbook author and founder of Mad About Macarons since 2010, I’ve spent 30+ years perfecting foolproof French recipes in Paris—so you don’t have to! Expect step-by-step guidance, lower-sugar treats that don’t skimp on flavour, plus insider food and market guides to help you taste France like a local. If I can do it, so can you - no fancy techniques required!

    Meet Jill

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    1. Marilyn

      January 18, 2019 at 4:06 pm

      I would love going here. Beautiful!

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        January 19, 2019 at 12:23 pm

        Stay tuned, Marilyn, as I'll be posting about the other 3 wonderful walks nearby.

        Reply
    2. Christina Conte

      December 07, 2018 at 6:11 am

      Brilliant! I would absolutely adore this walk! I remember you pointing out Restaurant Fournaise when I was there. The caves are incredible and your photo with the macarons is just lovely! You should frame that one, Jill! I'm just catching up after being out of touch the past few weeks!

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        December 07, 2018 at 9:03 am

        Hehe you remembered that? That's cool. The kids always mock me when we drive over the Pont de Chatou from Paris, as I always look over at it and say "I love where we live". Now, if I don't say it - they chorus it out loud in the back of the car!

        Reply
    3. Betty

      December 03, 2018 at 4:34 am

      What a fascinating blog post, Jill! You know that I can completely appreciate how much history there must be to such unique and beautiful structures like this! Love photos and lots of research here! Thank you so much for sharing with us!!

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        December 03, 2018 at 10:26 am

        It's a real pleasure, Betty. Thanks for coming here to join me.

        Reply
    4. Janice

      December 02, 2018 at 10:27 pm

      What a lovely place! The artist walks sound right up my street, will certainly bear this in mind.

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        December 03, 2018 at 10:25 am

        You'd love them. Dying to show you the rest, Janice.

        Reply
    5. William Charlebois

      December 02, 2018 at 9:04 pm

      The photos are beautiful! Thanks for sharing them!

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        December 02, 2018 at 9:32 pm

        It's a real joy to share the area through my photos, William. Thanks for popping by.

        Reply
    6. Thomasina

      December 02, 2018 at 7:59 pm

      Thank you so much Jill for the Renoir Tour - it looks amazing and the caves look really something out of the ordinary and so close to the hustle and bustle of Paris. I feel I would really like to do this very tour in the springtime. This blog is much easier to read than the guidebooks because I feel you are taking me there and giving me the benefit of your experience.

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        December 02, 2018 at 9:31 pm

        Well it's the greatest pleasure to receive a comment like this, Thomasina. Thank you. So happy to share a bit of my world. Hope you come in the Spring to do this beautiful walk.

        Reply
    7. Mimi

      December 02, 2018 at 1:34 pm

      Just beautiful. You are so lucky to live in Paris!

      Reply
      • Jill Colonna

        December 02, 2018 at 2:21 pm

        Thanks Mimi. I know we're very lucky. We actually live outside of Paris in this area of the Yvelines, just next to Saint-Germain-en-Laye. If you get the chance to visit, please do since it's a beautiful mini Paris!

        Reply

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    Welcome

    Bonjour - I'm Jill

    As a cookbook author and founder of Mad About Macarons since 2010, I’ve spent 30+ years perfecting foolproof French recipes in Paris—so you don’t have to! Expect step-by-step guidance, lower-sugar treats that don’t skimp on flavour, plus insider food and market guides to help you taste France like a local. If I can do it, so can you - no fancy techniques required!

    Meet Jill

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