Poichichade: Provençal Garlic Chickpea Spread

Served with the classic apéritif in Provence is the classic 'Poichichade'. Rather like hummus dip, it's an extra garlicky French chickpea spread from the south. Spread on baguette slices or dip with raw vegetable 'crudités' and enjoy with a chilled rosé.

L'Apéritif in Provence with Chickpeas and Garlic

We're going savoury for a change and thinking of the French's favourite time before dinner: the apéritif.

As we're back from Provence visiting family, I'm "spreading" the holiday mood. Open the rosé wine and go for a dip with the Provençal equivalent of hummus, Poichichade - with plenty of garlic from the market. Well, just a few cloves - not as much as this lot!

We're up by the rock in Saignon in the Luberon, the heart of Provence. It has always been special, whatever time of year. Tonton Claude, now 89, joined us which means one thing: we have to ensure that uncle has a regular supply of baguettes!

Just accompanying him into the village is a morning treat as he charms the locals - and Christine, the local boulangère. As it's the only bakery in Saignon, there are inevitable queues of locals and tourists - so the extra chatting and bises of cheek-to-cheek greetings are often accelerated.

He takes the short-cut home, jumping barriers via the fig trees. After his breakfast 'tartine' (long slice of fresh baguette and butter) he's ready to take on the famous Saturday market in Apt - to find les 'pois chiches' or chickpeas. They're already cooked, prepared that day and so making a poichichade is extra easy - without a tin in sight.

Poichichade - Provence's Answer to Hummus

Provençal Poichichade (pron: pwah-sheesh-ad) is like Lebanese-style Hummus without the tahini. Not only is it rather addictive, it contains a lot of garlic. It is made with both cooked garlic and just one large fresh clove at the end to give it that extra touch of Provence. Don't forget the bay leaf!

Although we can buy it at the market, I love to make this back home in Paris 'dans le nord'! This recipe is thanks to my Provençal friend, Valérie Cortade - as she makes a mean Poichichade with plenty of garlic.

Hummus - Dried vs Canned Chickpeas

Please use dried chickpeas if you have the time rather than those in cans. Believe me, the taste is completely different. The longest part is just soaking them in advance and cooking for an hour. But it's worth it as the flavours get to linger together with the bay leaf and cooked garlic.

Although tinned chickpeas are good (and yellower), the dried longer version is lighter, far creamier, smoother and has more flavour.

How Much Dried Chickpeas Equals a Can?

In this recipe, we use 200g (7oz) of dried chickpeas (about a cup), which equals two 400g (14oz) cans. So, once drained, the net weight of the canned chickpeas is 500g (18oz).

So 100g (3.5oz/ half cup) dried chickpeas = 250g (9oz) drained tinned chickpeas from one 400g (14oz) tin.

French Tip to Make Chickpeas Easily Digestible

Many French people love to talk about digestion and, in our family, somehow the subject of gas can be a prime subject at the table. I stop here but sometimes it's not easy to stop their excited flow of conversation around how chickpeas have a gassy, bloating effect on some.

Lo and behold, my French mother-in-law has the cunning plan to help the digestion on these matters. To make chickpeas much more digestible, there are three stages:

• First rinse the dried chickpeas well
• Rub off the extra chickpea skins - although edible, it's easier to digest without them
• Add a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda to the cooking water and simmer for an hour.

How to Make Poichichade, Provençal Chickpea Spread

Leave the dried chickpeas to soak overnight in water.
(If using tinned, then go straight to the last instruction, adding just 2 cloves of fresh garlic.)

Next day, sieve and rinse well. Rub the chickpeas between your hands to release and discard of any skins. Although not a problem to eat the chickpea skins, it's best to remove for a more smoother consistency.

Transfer them to a heavy based pan. Add enough water just to cover the chickpeas and add a teaspoon of bicarbonate of soda (this makes them easy to digest). Add 3 large cloves of garlic and the bay leaf. Cover and cook for an hour over a low-medium heat. After the first 10 minutes, skim off any impurities that rise to the top.

When cooked, drain the chickpeas and garlic, discard the bay leaf and keep some of the cooking water. Leave to cool for 20 minutes. Once cool, rub the chickpeas with your hands to discard any loose skins to make extra creamy.

Mix the chickpeas with the little cooking water using a hand blender or mixer with the rest of the ingredients (adding the extra clove of garlic - or even more to your taste but beware - could be potent!). Dribbling in the olive oil gradually until you have a good dipping consistency and add more cooking water as needed. Chill for at least 15 minutes.

Don't Throw Out Tinned Chickpea Brine

If you use tinned chickpeas, don't throw out the brine! Known as Aquafaba, this chickpea brine is used to make these Vegan Raspberry Macarons.

Looking for another kind of healthy hummus without chickpeas?
Then enjoy this broccoli hummus.

How to Serve La Poichichade - Provençal Chickpea Spread

In France's Provence it's served as an apéritif accompanied by fresh toasted thin slices of baguette and fresh crudités, a mixture of raw vegetables.

Serve on thin toasted baguette slices or with raw vegetables (crudités) like radishes, cauliflower florets or carrots. It's also delicious served with pickled radishes.

This post was first published July 10th 2015 but is now completely updated.