Pain d'épices (French Gingerbread)

Why We Love this French Gingerbread

In just 20 minutes the smell of French gingerbread wafts around the house. The girls first thought I was making sticky toffee pudding with apple. Aha! Playing tricks on ze nose. Until they realised it was pain d'épices.

What makes gingerbread taste like gingerbread? It's the honey, the specific spices (see below) and the rye flour. Rye flour has an interesting sour and slightly acidic taste - plus it's also low in gluten.

Gingerbread - an Eggless Cake Recipe

This is also a handy recipe to have at the ready during the festive season for a number of reasons:

• it's an eggless cake recipe - handy if you run out or have intolerances to eggs.
• it's best made 2 days in advance - or even up to a week for the flavours to intensify. The honey also keeps in the moisture. That's why it was also known as 'cake du voyage' as a travelling cake, as it could keep so well.
• it freezes well for up to 2 months.

Easy French Gingerbread Recipe

This recipe is slightly adapted from French boulanger, Julien Cantenot of Atelier P1 bakery in Paris. If you haven't tried his breads, then discover his talent from his boulangerie workshop in the 18th arrondissement on rue Marcadet in Montmartre.

Chef Cantenot kindly posted it in the 2021 November/December issue of the French Fou de Pâtisserie Magazine. For fans of rye flour (farine de siegle), it uses 100% of it, without an often classic mix of plain flour. The chef called for a particularly large amount of bicarbonate of soda which I ended up reducing after testing, as I felt it was a bit too strong. I also doubled the quantity of the recipe, as prefer making more of it for the festive season.

Otherwise I adore this recipe. It is slightly moist, not too sweet with a lovely crumb. It's also perfectly dosed with spices without being overpowering. What's more, just out of the oven, it looks like the glossy gingerbreads sold at our French markets.
The loaf contains no eggs, no molasses. Note that no shortening is ever used - use good quality butter (see FAQ for more.)

Where does Pain d'Épices Come From?

Pronounced, "pan-day-piece", according to Larousse Gastronomique, Pain d'épices came from China in the 10th century with a version of honey bread called mi-kong. It came via Europe and France after the Crusades via Flanders by the Dukes of Burgundy.

In 1596, King Henri IV founded the pain d'épiciers in Reims, which was made with only rye flour, known as farine de siègle - like this recipe.

What are the French Capitals of Gingerbread?

Pain d'épices is particularly famous in the three French towns of Reims, Dijon (see more in my article), and Gertwiller in Alsace (see also my food guide to Strasbourg).

Each town has their own emblematic creators of French gingerbread which continue today: Fossier in Reims, Mulot & Petitjean in Dijon, and Fortwenger and Lips in Gerwiller. Each make slight variations depending on type of honey - using mainly acacia but in Alsace it's popular to use chestnut honey (miel châtaignier). Gingerbread must contain at least 50% honey in order to be considered pain d'épices. If it mentions that it's 'pur miel' then there is only honey and no other sugar.

There's even a gingerbread museum (Musée du pain d'épices) in Gertwiller (Bas-Rhin) for its history and its traditions.

Is it the Same as Gingerbread Men?

This is the softer, cake-like version of gingerbread, not to be confused by gingerbread men cookies, which are different and rely more on just the spices. More traditional in France are the larger gingerbread men. Known as 'mennele', they are made using a brioche base.

Pain d'épices - French Gingerbread Spice Mix

Can't find pain d'épice spice mix? Then it's easy to make your own. As I mention, different regions (Alsace, Dijon or Reims) use slightly different spices so use what you prefer. It's generally made with ground cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and anise.

Add the ground spices but also infuse a couple of whole cloves, cardamom seeds (from 4 green pods) and a star anise (étoile badiane). It may look a lot but I can assure you it's not overly spiced but beautifully fragrant.

How to Make your Own Gingerbread

Pain d'épices is very quick to make. See the printable recipe card below.

• Preheat the oven to 180°C (160°C fan/360°F) and generously butter a loaf tin.
• Heat together the honey, water, sugar and spices together gently in a saucepan. Once all dissolved, melt in the butter.
• Meanwhile, sift the rye flour together in a bowl with the baking powder, salt and ground spices.

• Gradually stir the warmed honey and melted butter mix into the flour until all blended together. It's so easy, I don't even use a mixer. The batter will be quite liquid.
• Pour the batter into the greased loaf tin and bake for 40-50 minutes. (The original recipe by chef Cantenot called for baking for only 30 minutes with half the quantity and in a 500g tin).
• Leave the cake to rest and cool in the tin for about 10 minutes then turn out on to a wire tray to cool.

What to Eat with Pain d'Épices?

Normally the French don't eat anything with pain d'épices at teatime. As a light teatime treat, it's served with tea, coffee or typical French hot chocolate (chocolat chaud) and delicious served with clementine oranges.

The French also serve this as an apéritif or as a starter (l'entrée) during the holiday season as it goes well with foie gras. As this recipe is not too sweet, it's also ideal served with stronger French cheeses. For the ultimate luxury, enjoy with a little fig jam (confiture de figues).

This also makes a great base for gingerbread and apple caramel trifles.