My top ten reasons to visit the popular coastal town of Honfleur in Normandy, France. Discover why Honfleur is famous, our family's best restaurant picks and top tips of things to do. With only 2 hours drive from Paris and 3 hours by train, it's worth the trip.
As Honfleur is possibly the nearest coastal town to Paris, we often enjoy a weekend or spend a few days here. So, as a full-time resident in France for over 30 years, it's my pleasure to share some of its gems.
- 1. Honfleur's Historic Harbour (Vieux Bassin)
- 2. Daily Fresh Fish and Seafood
- 3. The Old Town - So Normandy
- 4. Honfleur's Beautiful Churches
- 5. Normandy Bridge: The Largest Cable-Stayed Bridge in the World
- 6. Honfleur's Museums
- 7. Honfleur's Farmers' Markets
- 8. Our Top 9 Restaurants in Honfleur
- 9. Only 2 Hours Drive from Paris
- 10. Good Base for Visiting Normandy Beaches
- Bonus Tips to Visit Honfleur Normandy
1. Honfleur's Historic Harbour (Vieux Bassin)
The top landmark in Honfleur is the Vieux Bassin, or inner harbour. It's the heart of the medieval town that has attracted writers, musicians, and painters over the centuries. Listen to the hypnotic bells vying with the tinkling yachts from the nearby churches.
At the end of the harbour, is the 17th-century watch-tower, the Lieutenance. It was here that Samuel de Champlain set sail from Honfleur in 1608 to colonise Canada and led to Quebec's foundation.
The harbour is witness to its ever-changing mix between the weekday and weekend. Dotted with colourful boats, the tranquil tinkling of fishing boats during the week turns into a holiday cacophony of excited visitors on the weekend.
No wonder! Just the harbour alone is full of interest, lined with bustling restaurants, seafood bars, cafés and art galleries. It's also a famous town for artists: often seated quietly behind easels around the port, their brushes squiggle to capture the varying scenes and ambience.
2. Daily Fresh Fish and Seafood
A plate of steaming moules (mussels) sums up the fresh seafood and fish that's caught daily in Honfleur. We often see bikers whizz up the autoroute from Paris - just for their Sunday lunch plate of oysters or mussels sold on the harbour!
Depending on the daily catch, the fish market is every morning, Thursdays to Sundays at the Jetée de Transit. Here you'll find everything from cod and mackerel to scallops (coquilles Saint-Jacques) and prawns or shrimps.
Love fish and seafood at home?
Then try this Chorizo Risotto with Scallops or
easy pan-fried John Dory fish
3. The Old Town - So Normandy
The old town is what makes Honfleur so particularly charmant and so French. Its quaint narrow streets and pretty cobbled squares are crammed with half-timbered houses, juxtaposed with wooden and slate houses, many on 7 floors.
Don't forget to look up at many historical plaques indicating famous birthplaces (Eugène Boudin, Erik Satie, Alphonse Allais). More on composer, Erik Satie, below. Incidentally, he lived in Paris next to the Montmartre museum - for more, see my online chocolate and pastry guide to Montmartre.
4. Honfleur's Beautiful Churches
St Catherine's Church from the 15th century, built by local ship-builders, resembles an upturned ship's hull with a separate tower holding the bells across the square.
St. Leonard's Church - Step inside St. Leonard's Church to admire its 15th-century portal and unique fonts made from seashells, adorned with large oyster shells.
Visit Notre Dame de Grace, situated on a hill in Honfleur, accessible by a short, steep climb or a car ride to Le Mont-Joli. Explore the chapel for a peaceful experience, adorned with boats and relics on the ceiling and thanksgiving plaques by locals and pilgrims.
Listen to the impressive external bells chiming every 15 minutes and Bizet's Carmen from l'Arlésienne on the hour. Notably, the chapel was the final stop of Louis-Philippe, the last king of France, and his wife Marie-Amélie before departing for England.
5. Normandy Bridge: The Largest Cable-Stayed Bridge in the World
From the Mont-Joli next to the Chapel of Notre Dame de Grace, is the most fabulous view of the River Seine's Estuary and the Pont de Normandie - 2.14 kilometres across the Seine from Honfleur to Le Havre.
Opened in 1995, the Normandy Bridge is the largest cable-stayed bridge in the world. It's a motorway toll bridge but for walkers and cyclists it's FREE, with a footpath. Check out the monument just at this panoramic viewpoint: it glorifies Notre Dame de Grace for sparing Honfleur during the 1944 Battle of Normandy.
6. Honfleur's Museums
Honfleur, birth-town of Eugène Boudin and Erik Satie offers a rich history of art and culture.
Experience the history of the Honfleurais, including its fishing heritage and maritime traditions that have shaped the town over centuries. Purchase a discounted ticket to visit four museums, excluding the separate salt lofts.
- The Eugène-Boudin museum. Delve into art depicting Honfleur, daily life in Normandy and the estuary. View nearly 100 works by Eugène Boudin, known for his paintings of the sky and sea that influenced Claude Monet.
- The Satie Houses - If you love Erik Satie, you need to explore his birthplace (1866). It's a real whimsical journey through his eccentric character, portrayed through sound, light and objects. Listening to his life and anecdotes alongside his famous Gymnopédies compositions is rather amusing!
- Greniers à Sel (Salt Lofts) - Three 17th century lofts were built under the salt tax agreement to store 10,000 tons of salt needed by the cod fishing boats to preserve the fish. Fascinating tour.
- The Musée de la Marine showcases model ships and marine artifacts in St Stephen's, the oldest church in Honfleur. Explore the Ethnographical and Popular Arts Museum nearby to view the interiors of 16th-century Normandy dwellings.
7. Honfleur's Farmers' Markets
In St Catherine's quarter, enjoy the local farmers' organic ('bio') market on Wednesday mornings. Here you'll regularly find an abundance of locally harvested watercress (to see how it's grown, see my post from Veules-les-Roses, including a recipe for French watercress soup.)
The main farmers' market is on Saturday mornings, with fruits and vegetables, other Normandy local specialities such as Cidre, Calvados from famous Normandy apples, cheeses (such as Pont l'Evèque, nearby), plus plenty of fish and seafood.
For the flower market, head to Place Arthur Boudin and for clothes, accessories and souvenirs, you'll find them at the Cours des Fossés and Rue de la Ville.
For more, see the Tourist Office's information on Honfleur's Market Days.
Arriving in Honfleur on non-market days is not a problem, as shopping is also great for local produce to quaint antique shops. Try the Crottes de Mouettes (translated as seagull droppings), which are delicious morsels of chocolate and salted caramel.
8. Our Top 9 Restaurants in Honfleur
Whether it's fine dining in any of the numerous Michelin-listed addresses, enjoying a plate of seafood by the harbour, or a good quality traditional Normandy crêpe, there's something for all budgets and tastes in Honfleur.
Be aware that during January and February, many restaurants close for their annual holidays. Be sure to check their weekday opening times (many typically close Mon/Tues and book in advance, if possible.
Here is our (unsponsored) personal list of favourites, away from the harbour's main tourist trail:
- La Fleur de Sel - Chef Vincent Guyon sets the bar high with gastronomic dishes at great value. Ensure to book, as this small gem has already known!
- SaQuaNa - Chef Alexandre Bourdas shows just why he received 2 Michelin Stars. Due to his popularity, he also has a fabulous boulangerie-pâtisserie nearby.
- Entre Terre et Mer - although a super restaurant, just across the road we love their oyster bar (Bar à Huîtres) where a simple, fresh plate of oysters or mussels with frites are great value.
- Le Bréard - I mention this only as it serves fabulous gourmet food but, from our experience, the service needs work: not in speed but in politesse. It's up to you if you don't mind and just concentrate on the dishes.
- Le Vieux Honfleur - the oldest restaurant in town and one of the oldest in France. With views of the old harbour, great dishes by chef Yann-Mickaël Coquet.
- La Chaumière - slightly out of town, this aptly named thatched hotel-restaurant has a homely feel. Outside eating in summer with sea views over to Le Havre, or cosy nooks by the roaring fire. Friendly service and super menus around their own vegetables from le potager. Great for celebrating a special occasion (we've had a few special birthdays here over the years!)
- La Table des Impressionnistes - Also slightly out of town (near la Côte de Grâce above), as part of Le Manoir hotel, this is an ideal quiet haven with a view. Serves good, simple yet beautifully presented food. The wine list is pricey but the list is excellent. If you're looking to speak English, the British owner, Brigitte, often comes around the tables to say hello.
- La Crêperie des Arts - For something less formal, you have to eat crêpes!
We've tried many crêperies in Honfleur and this one gets our top vote each time. Their savoury buckwheat pancakes (galettes de sarrasin) are beautifully lacy thin. Friendly service and great for families. Unlike many touristy establishments where tinned fruit is used, all crêpe fillings and salads use good, fresh ingredients. - Laurence - This antique shop is also the cutest restaurant and tea salon with curious nick-nacks on rue des Lingots. Laurence herself, like the ambience, is charming but please don't take photos inside. Her speciality is 'no phones' to enjoy the pretty decor while eating, as if being served at home. Enjoy French traditional family dishes such as the blanquette de veau.
9. Only 2 Hours Drive from Paris
The town is so near to Paris! With only 2 hours drive north of Paris to Normandy, Honfleur is particularly accessible. It's pretty much a straight drive up the Autoroute (A13), passing Monet's house in Giverny if you have time to stop. However, if you're looking to spend time boating between Paris and Honfleur, it's a straight sail on the River Seine all the way up to the Estuary.
Nearby or en route, it's also great for discovering the nearby Cidre and Calvados farms (see more on the market page on French Apples), as well as cheese in nearby Pont l'Evèque.
10. Good Base for Visiting Normandy Beaches
While staying in Honfleur Normandy, explore nearby coastal towns like Étretat, Deauville, and Cabourg, known for their stunning beaches. Venturing a bit further, consider visiting Veules-les-Roses and Le Mont Saint-Michel, both accessible within a 3-hour drive from Honfleur.
Wondering about the distance to the Normandy landing beaches from Honfleur? Plan for a 1.5 to 2-hour drive to reach iconic sites like Omaha, Utah, Gold, Juno, and Sword Beach.
Honfleur boasts two beaches: Plage du Butin, located closest to the town, offers easy access and free roadside parking. For a more tranquil experience, head to La Plage Vasouy, where the further you walk from the crowded area near town, the quieter it becomes (there are a few lovely shades under trees).
Despite the view of Le Havre's industrial port across the water, many visitors find this beach serene and ideal for picnics.
Bonus Tips to Visit Honfleur Normandy
- If arriving by car, try to park on the outskirts of the town using the various car parks as much as possible. Busy periods mean busy traffic and, as many streets are one-way and pedestrian only, this will make everyone's lives easier.
N.B. the harbour is closed to traffic after 1 May through summer high season. - If going by train from Paris, it takes about 3 hours with about 7 trains a day.
- For boat trips, information on timings for museums and other visits including Calvados tastings, see Honfleur's Office de Tourisme (tourist information office);
- If you can, do try and speak as much French as you can. The locals appreciate visitors but, as we are in France, it's only polite to try and speak the language, especially saying Bonjour! No matter how little you speak, if you show willingness to try, it helps keep the local Honfleurais smiling.
- The best time to visit Honfleur is off season (particularly avoiding the French summer holidays in July/August), as it is much less crowded. If you visit on weekends and in summer, ensure to book restaurants in advance.
Disclaimer: None of this post is sponsored. As we live in the Paris region, this is to share our personal free guide to the town.
This post was first published April 27, 2019 but is now completely updated.
Betty
What a great blog post, Jill! So glad to know about one more trip outside of Paris! Hoping to get to see it in person one day! As much as we loved Paris, we love seeing pictures and videos from the smaller towns as well (it's what keeps us glued to the TV for three weeks each July during the Tour de France!). A great blog post, as always, Jill and lots of fun to read!
Jill Colonna
It's a real pleasure, Betty, to share my experiences so that you can enjoy them one day too. Our family love watching the Tour de France, often just for the villages. Isn't that funny? Thanks for your kind words.
maxine peters
I just received my United Airlines gift card; I kid you not my niece asked me to help her raise money on Fhundy for her youth auxiliary club. At first I was like baby I’ll just donate and then she said “Aunty Nae you can get a gift card if you help me out” she did say they had gift cards for Barney’s LV Chanel etc.. so I said I will check it out. She wasn’t kidding so I decided to give it a chance 2 weeks later I raised enough to get a $2000 United Airlines gift card. Yes, people I helped out niecy and got myself a way to fly to Normandy and I hope i get to visit Honfleur?
Jill Colonna
Very clever of you!
Karen Ashby
I enjoyed lunch at SaQuaNa in August 2013 it still stands as my all time favourite dining experience, I have the menu of the day framed as a memento. Lovely to hear the restaurant is going from strength to strength. I hope to return on one of my visits to France from Australia. Thanks for the article.
Jill Colonna
Wow! That must have been something for you to frame the menu. Here's hoping you return soon, Karen, as there are so many wonderful restaurants around here.
Devra Long
This is wonderful information!!
I am saving this for a future trip! We have not been to this part of France yet and now I am so looking forward to exploring this area! When I read moules and oysters that was it!
Merci xx
Jill Colonna
Well, as a seafood lover you'll adore this place. So glad you're planning to visit and this helps, Devra.
Thomasina
I've been to Honfleur but have only seen a fraction of what you are suggesting so reading this has definitely inspired me to go back and back again. Thanks for the tip not to visit in July or August.
Jill Colonna
That's great, Thomasina! So glad you'll be returning.
Carol gillott
OMG...guess who is in honfleur this minute!
I even checked yr blog thinking there would be a post!
What a pefect read Jill. Big Merci Xxx
Love it, love it love it!
Jill Colonna
I'm thrilled you love it and even more thrilled you're there just now to enjoy it, Carol. We're off today to the Loire for a week. Enjoy your trip!
Christina
There's a river cruise that I've seen that visits Honfleur and after seeing your stories on IG, it was so enticing! I'm ready to visit anytime! Too bad my travels to France aren't taking me in this direction, but next time for sure! Your photos are simply wonderful and it looks like the weather cooperated nicely!
Great tips, too, especially about speaking French. I think it's a very good lesson for English speakers to learn as so many times I've heard someone just start speaking in English without first asking (in a non-English speaking country). And to be honest, I've probably even done it myself without realizing!
Lovely post and pictures as always, Jill! Honfleur should be rolling out the red carpet for you next time!
Jill Colonna
So glad you'll visit Honfleur on your next trip. Yes, we were extremely lucky with the weather. I don't mention the speaking French, or trying to, bit enough. So many people I hear don't even try with the basics like Bonjour and Merci. It changes everything. Red carpet? A blogger in France is not like in the USA: mention blog and they treat it like it's a nasty word...