Meet the French cheese spread recipe from Lyon with the funniest name on the menu: Cervelle de Canut. It's a light, spreadable cheese you can whip up in 20 minutes. Traditionally made with faisselle but outside France, ricotta works brilliantly.
What Is Cervelle de Canut? Lyon's Spreadable Cheese with a Confusing Name
One of the most famous cheese spreads in France is from Lyon. Called Cervelle de Canut (Silkweaver's brain), it's whisked together in minutes. In bouchons, the city's traditional eateries, it's spread on toasted bread, presented like a French cheese dip.
Why the name? In 19th century Lyon, wealthy patrons often ordered lambs' brains. The silkweavers (canuts) instead made a much cheaper version of cheese spread. The curds looked a bit like brains so the name stuck. No lamb's brains in sight - just a light, spreadable cheese with herbs that the workers ate as a mid-morning snack (mâchon).
As they say in France, "l'oignon fait la force". French onions (or shallots) sustained the workers along with vitamins from the fresh herbs.
According to Larousse Gastronomique, it was made with French cheese, fromage blanc en faisselle - not too soft, called Claqueret - from the expression, "claquer le fromage" meaning to beat or whisk the cheese well.
French Cheese Spread Ingredients
Here's what you'll need to make this cheese spread recipe. The French way requires no cooking or microwave and is made in just 20 minutes.
- Faisselle Fromage blanc - use faisselle (drained) when you can; ricotta is a great everyday swap - or turn it into a cottage cheese French onion dip
- Shallots - use 2 large and finely chopped. If you prefer with garlic, add a finely chopped clove to replace a shallot
- Fresh parsley - plus chives and either chervil, tarragon or dill depending on season
- White wine vinegar - it's the secret ingredient to a good cheese dip
- White wine - I love it in here but have marked it optional
- Olive oil - classic but also good with canola oil. Chef Robuchon used walnut oil for extra flavour (store it in the fridge to preserve its flavour and healthy qualities)
- Heavy cream (30% fat) - well chilled, whipped until stiff and folded in
- Sea salt & black pepper - add plenty to your taste, depending on your cheese.
The same trio of cream, shallots and herbs runs through Lyon's local cooking - even in their boudin noir.
For more on their flavours and uses,
see the market guide to fresh herbs.
My Aux Lyonnais Moment - I Thought It Was Brains!
Years ago at Aux Lyonnais in Paris (a lovely bouchon run by Ducasse), I was waiting for my husband so ordered a glass of Mâcon. Perusing the menu, I'd already made my choice, leaving any brains to the braver diners.
The waiter then arrived, set down the wine plus a tiny ramekin with toast:
"Voici une petite Cervelle de Canut, Madame."
"Oh well, it's free and gives me a chance to finally try it", I thought. So I braced myself...
Then laughed. It was just the fluffiest cheese spread with herbs and a bright tang. I was hooked after that first (and relieved!) spoonful.
How to Make a Cheese Spread Like the French
First beat the cheese until smooth.
Add oil, vinegar, wine (I love it with but omit if you prefer), salt and pepper.
Whip up the chilled cream until stiff, then fold in to the cheese spread mixture.
Continue to fold in the rest of the ingredients: chopped shallots and plenty of freshly chopped herbs. Then chill until ready to serve.
How to Serve
Either serve as a cheese spread or as a cheese dip, Lyon-style with:
- Crusty bread, toast or crackers
- Crudités of raw radishes, celery, carrots - like for this Provençal chickpea spread or broccoli hummus
- Baked potatoes with a simple green salad, charcuterie or raw/cooked hams
- An open sandwich spread with radishes, cucumber, walnuts or smoked salmon
For more on Lyon's food scene, see my articles:
Gourmet Lyon in 3 Days and Lyon's Best Pâtisseries.
Cheese Spread Recipe (Cervelle de Canut)
Ingredients
- 250 g (8oz/ 1 cup) fromage blanc 'faisselle' or ricotta cheese
- 45 ml (3 tbsp) dry white wine optional
- 45 ml (3 tbsp) white wine vinegar
- 45 ml (3 tbsp) olive oil or canola oil
- 150 ml (5 fl oz/ ¼ pint) whipping or heavy cream (30% fat) well chilled
- ½ tsp each fleur de sel and ground black pepper
- 2 large shallots finely chopped
- 1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf parsley finely chopped
- 1 tablespoon fresh chives finely chopped
- 1 tablespoon fresh chervil (tarragon or dill) finely chopped
Instructions
- If using Faisselle, first drain it using a sieve to extract the extra liquid (no need if using ricotta). In a large bowl, mash the cheese with a fork and add the oil, vinegar and oil. Add the white wine, if using or keep it to serve with it...
- Whip the chilled cream to stiff peaks and using a spatula, fold into the cheese mixture. Add the shallots and herbs. Stir in well and add salt and black pepper to your taste.Chill for 30 minutes or until ready to serve.
Notes
Faisselle can be replaced by either ricotta or cottage cheese. Serve with bread, toast or crackers. Also delicious as a cheese dip with crudités, spooned on potatoes - even an open sandwich spread with radishes and cucumber. For an apéritif, it goes well with a chilled white Burgundy such as a Mâcon or a white Beaujolais, the more local wines around Lyon. Make-Ahead: This can be made in advance the day before - great for entertaining. Cover in the fridge until ready to serve.
David Scott Allen
I really wish we could get the faisselle here in the US. How different is it from regular fromage blanc? The cheese spread sounds really good, and I look forward to making it. I think I would like it much more than lamb brains! (Though, I must admit, I am a fan of most offal.)
Jill Colonna
Well it's 'offally' good, without the brains, David! Faisselle is thicker (hence why I think ricotta is the best substitute in consistency) and normally we need to drain it first. I think we need to do a taste test when you're over in April. Now that would be fun!
David Scott Allen
It sure would! Whenever I am in Paris, I end up wanting to move there for the cheese selection alone. 🙂
Jill Colonna
Agreed - the fromageries here are incredible. Haste ye back!
Mimi Rippee
I loved visiting Lyon! I remember the tunnels. And the fabulous food! Love this cheese spread.
http://www.chefmimiblog.com
Jill Colonna
Glad you enjoyed it, Mimi - and hope you make this recipe too. I'd love to hear what you think. Here's to all the delicious things that Lyon has to offer!