Savoury Choux Buns with Smoked Salmon (Choux au Saumon fumé)

What is Savoury Choux Pastry?

Savoury choux pastry is simply classic pâte à choux made without sugar and filled with savoury ingredients. The dough itself doesn't change; it's how you serve it that does.

In France, savoury choux most often appears as cheese-filled gougères, especially in Burgundy (see my Food guide to Dijon). For this recipe, I skip the cheese to keep things lighter and let the smoked salmon, apple and horseradish shine.

Because choux pastry is light, crisp and hollow in the centre, it works beautifully for savoury fillings such as smoked salmon, herbs, cream cheese or even broccoli hummus. That's what makes savoury choux buns such a good choice for canapés, starters and entertaining.

What is the Difference Between Choux Buns, Éclairs and Profiteroles?

Choux buns, éclairs and profiteroles all start with the same choux pastry. The difference lies in shape and serving, not the dough.

Sweet versions became popular thanks to Antonin Carême, who filled small choux buns with pastry cream (later ice cream) and finished them with chocolate sauce - what we now call profiteroles. Éclairs followed the same idea, piped long and filled.

Choux buns are the more flexible format. They can be small or large, sweet or savoury, which is why savoury choux buns work so well for modern entertaining.

What Does Choux Pastry Taste Like?

Choux pastry has a mild, slightly eggy flavour and a light, almost soufflé-like texture. On its own, it's intentionally neutral, designed to showcase the filling.

In this savoury version, poppy seeds add a subtle nuttiness, while the smoked salmon is balanced by a lightly spiced, herby crème fraîche sharpened with grated apple. Fresh, crisp and never heavy.

Why are they Called Choux Buns or Pastry?

It was Catherine de Medicis who brought choux pastry to France, thanks to her Italian chef, Popelini in 1540. Since celebrity chef, Antonin Carême made it popular at the end of the 18th century, it's a French signature in patisserie known as pâte a choux (pronounced: 'pat-a-shoe). So, why choux? It's the way the dough is prepared.

Not to be confused with cabbages (choux), the name refers to the choux dough being cooked over the stove. Water, milk and butter are first heated together then plain, all-purpose flour is whisked in to form the dough or pâte. It's then dried over the heat to create the hot dough or pâte à chaud.

Say it quickly and you can see why it stuck with Carême: pâte à chaud ('pat-a-show') turned into pâte à choux or choux pastry: buns or puffs.

How to Make Savoury Choux Pastry - Easy Recipe

Either make large choux buns (as indicated in the recipe card below) for a dinner party starter. Alternatively, prepare smaller bite-sized portions for a party - in which case will make about 18 mini choux.

First heat the water, milk with a good pinch of salt, and melt in the cubed butter in a saucepan over medium heat. As soon as boiling, turn down the heat and add the flour and poppy seeds. Beat in to the liquid with a wooden spoon or sturdy spatula to avoid lumps until smoothly blended and the dough comes away naturally from the sides of the pan.

Transfer the dough to a mixing bowl and leave to cool for about 5 minutes. Gradually beat in the first egg until the batter is smooth, then the 2nd egg. Don't worry if it looks gloopy and broken at this stage. Continue mixing strongly until well blended and air is incorporated into the thick dough.

Either spoon out large heaps (or with a cookie scoop) on to a baking sheet lined with baking parchment or a silicone mat. Even better, use a piping bag to pipe out the batter with a large, plain nozzle into 6 even mounds, leaving each well spaced apart.

Bake in the oven for 25-30 minutes until a deep golden brown. Don't open the oven door until you are sure they look cooked.

Leave the choux buns to cool on a wire rack. Nearer the time when ready to serve, fill the buns with the cream filling, top with the smoked salmon and serve with the horseradish and apple cream sauce. During the season, add a few raw fresh peas.

What is the Secret to Choux Pastry? My Top Tips

How do you stop choux buns from going soggy? How best do you store and freeze them? Choux pastry is reliable once you respect three rules:

• Bake until well coloured - pale choux collapse.
• Don't open the oven door too early.
• Fill close to serving time.
• Choux buns can be baked earlier in the day or frozen unfilled, but once filled, they're best enjoyed fresh.

How to Serve

Serve with extra fresh aromatic herbs such as dill or chives. For a smoked salmon starter, serve with a chilled white Chardonnay wine (e.g. Chablis), a more mineral Sauvignon blanc or Pinot Grigio. In season, a few raw peas add colour and crunch.

For parties, I like serving them open-faced - choux should be admired before being eaten. Great for a real Scottish-French auld alliance for Burn's Night.