Indulge in afternoon tea at the Ritz Paris for the ultimate French Goûter à la Française. Either enjoy the biscuits and cakes, tea or coffee - or treat yourself to the full monty luxury with Champagne and a special pâtisserie.
Find out today's costs (2025), the dress code and meet some of the famous cakes in Proust's favourite salon.
Tea Time in the Salon Proust
Winter in Paris is perhaps the best time to indulge in the ultimate French afternoon tea. It takes place by the fireplace in the salon given homage to Marcel Proust, under his watchful portrait's eyes.
Author Marcel Proust came to the Ritz's opening party in 1898 and chose it as his second home.
Proust's favourite corner spot was right next to the fireplace. Here he found endless inspiration for his novels using the hotel's elegant surroundings and intimate salons of the literary and aristocratic elite. Here Proust felt that "Nobody would push you around".
Marcel Proust looks on wide-eyed, swooning over his childhood favourite sweet treats on overflowing tiered plates. He, no doubt, would have loved what's to come from talented head pastry chef, François Perret, who says:
“It is a journey through the flavors of my childhood memories which I grew up with and which developed by taste buds.”
François Perret (executive pastry chef)
What is the Dress Code for the Ritz Paris Afternoon Tea?
Proust could also be checking on the dress code. It's smart casual chic attire; so please be smart. No jeans, trainers or sportswear are permitted.
This typically means that you should dress neatly and presentably, but you do not need to wear formal attire. Men may opt for dress trousers/pants or chinos with a collared shirt, and women may choose a nice dress or blouse with trousers/pants or a skirt.
Avoid wearing sportswear, flip flops, or clothing that is too casual. When I recently came with a visitor wearing shorts (albeit designer and it was awkward to tell him otherwise before going in), we were discretely asked to leave in the Hemingway bar. So be warned. It's frustrating, as I was dressed just right!
Frankly, I like the opportunity to dress up a bit. It's not often I get out to enjoy such luxuries, so have fun.
While we're on the subject of rules, pets are not accepted.
Ritz Champagne Tea Time
As soon as 2pm chimes, the loaded silver Champagne bucket beckons at the entrance to the open-curtained, cosy salon. Would you choose Reserve Barons de Rothschild Blanc or Rosé to add sparkle to the occasion? I'm for the Blanc brut, but if you prefer without alcohol, then opt for their bubbly French Bloom or a mocktail.
The Teas
Exceptional teas from the TWG Tea Company in Singapore are given pride of place over an impressive choice on the tea menu.
The tea sommelier has picked out black, green and white teas, including semi-fermented, fermented teas and herbal infusions. I would recommend the Ritzy Earl Grey with added cornflowers.
Can You Have Coffee with Afternoon Tea at the Ritz?
Don't drink tea? Non- tea drinkers are also spoiled for choice with the likes of one of Paris's best hot chocolates, a choice of different coffees, as well as iced and cold drinks.
French Teatime Cakes at the Ritz Paris
Afternoon Tea at the Ritz is distinctly French in the Salon Proust. There are no savouries, but typical biscuits and petits fours (little teacakes) from yesteryear (les biscuits d'Antan) plus mini tarts and cakes.
Chef François Perret doesn't use sugar to excess. This is my kind of pastry chef! Note that the tea time is purely sweet and doesn't adapt to different food intolerances.
The Famous Ritz Madeleine
It’s the scalloped, humped madeleine teacake that takes centre stage from start to finish. C'est normal, as the madeleine cake was made famous by Proust in his novel, “In Search of Lost Time” (À la Recherche du Temps Perdu).
Even the tea service evokes a golden madeleine motif: Chef Perret helped to design the French white limoges porcelain made by Haviland. During the whole of January, when the French celebrate Epiphany with la galette des rois, there's even a madeleine fève hidden inside!
A mini 'baba madeleine' arrives in a bowl for starters, then sumptuously immersed in lemon-infused milk – we’re asked to leave it to infuse for a minute to enjoy the experience at its best.
The Madeleine du Ritz later arrives hidden under a bell, unveiled as delicately perfumed with orange blossom and lemon-glazed. So not to completely ruin your surprise, they often change the flavour combination.
More French Biscuits, Cakes and Petits Fours
Three tiers of treats arrive, vying for centre stage. We begin with a quirky teacup as the top tier, introducing each layer in order. These tiers feature biscuits and petits fours that would have traditionally graced the brasseries of the time: sponge fingers with cocoa nibs, Russian cigarettes, Florentines and financier cakes.
The second tier showcases biscuits such as Spritz, buttery Pailles au framboises (nothing like the French supermarket ones!), airy allumettes of egg whites and lemon, marshmallow bears. The bottom tier is dedicated to tarts, cakes and pastries, including the lightest sugar tarts on a fluffy French brioche base, old-fashioned tarte au citron, chocolate marble cake and giant tuiles.
Perhaps the most memorable treat is the Pain au Chocolat. Diverging from the classic viennoiserie we see in Parisian bakeries, Chef Perret reimagines this simple French childhood goûter (after-school 4pm snack).
This typical French baguette sandwich is normally filled with a couple of chocolate squares. Instead chef Perret cleverly transforms it into cocoa-nib-covered dark chocolate breads. They're served with a platter of cocoa butter, coconut butter, whipped cream, and jam. I find it's a lot to take in.
With all that tea, a trip to the restroom is an experience. The tap water pours from golden swans.
How Much Does Afternoon Tea at the Ritz Paris Cost?
At the time of my visit, these 2025 prices were not as expensive but here's the lowdown:
- A Parisian Champagne afternoon tea at the Ritz starts at 95 euros for 'Le Royal'. Traditional Goûter à la Française with all the biscuits, madeleines and tea, Champagne or non-alcoholic equivalent.
- For the ultimate crème de la crème luxury, go for L'Impérial at 115 euros. This includes an extra special dessert.
Frankly, I couldn't manage to eat all of that in an afternoon so opted for the first choice - even if the bubbles do help to digest! I'd missed the bill arriving, as it was so discrete. Hm, not that I'd run off to the bathroom to avoid paying the bill (I'm Scottish!)
The bill is so elegant, placed at page 46 inside an old edition of A la Recherche du Temps Perdu. It's the point where Proust describes that perfect taste of a childhood memory through a Madeleine and some tea. Nice touch.
What If I Can't Finish All the Cakes?
Don’t be fooled by all the light biscuits and mini cakes: it’s a challenge to finish everything that’s presented. Well, that is without requiring a golden crane option at the end to lift us out!
A box of untouched goodies are yours to take home. At the time of my visit, we were given yet another finale: the most exquisite tiny tea caddy containing a Rooibos and yuzu tea with precise instructions to infuse 5g for 400ml at 90°C for 3-4 minutes, s’il vous plaît.
After such a Ritz Paris Teatime, it's quite easy to take a stroll indoors and lose yourself in the sumptuous corridors leading to the Hemingway Bar. To access the bar, temptations continue with this elegant shopping gallery after teatime!
How Long is Tea at the Ritz?
With teatime starting at 2pm and ending at 5.30pm, it's a shame not to spend all of the afternoon here. That's why reservations are necessary. It's amazing how time can indeed go by so quickly to appreciate all of the cosy and historical Parisian ambience!
By the time you've enjoyed an afternoon by the fire in such lush surroundings, it's extra magical in Winter to come out to the sparkling lights of Place Vendôme.
Open every day: 2pm-5.30pm
French Teatime (Goûter à la française): Champagne Teatime: €95 and €115 (2025)
Salon Proust, Ritz Hotel Paris
15 Place Vendôme, 75001 PARIS
Tel: +33 (0)1 43 16 33 74
Metros: Opéra or Tuileries
Alas, this post is not sponsored and I was not invited by the Ritz in Paris.
Looking for more exquisite Parisian teatimes?
See my personal Guide to the Best Tearooms in Paris.
June S
We have to go there next time we come over. April in Paris would be ideal. Wonderful place and wonderful article Jill.
Linda
How lovely to read about your teatime! This has long been on my list, since I wrote my PhD thesis on Proust (and Flaubert). You might even have tempted me to re-read ALRTP in a slow moment, tho having eviscerated a book it's very hard to read it again for pleasure. Seul petit bémol - although a confirmed tea Jenny I can't stand Rooibos. I daresay the Ritz might accommodate something else? Gosh, just realising that the last time I was in Paris was 1984....
Jill Colonna
My goodness, Linda. After a thesis on Proust, you'll adore coming here. Time lost since 1984 needs rekindling in Paris - come again soon!
Christina | Christina's Cucina
This has been on my list since I first read it, but going with YOU! Such a lovely and relaxing afternoon. Just like a mini-getaway!
Jill Colonna
Definitely. Never thought of it like that: a mini getaway it certainly is.
Lesley Moyes
Loved the ‘Ritz’ edition.
It looks beautiful and a must go to the next time we are in Paris..
Well written article Jill and very inspiring x
Jill Colonna
So glad you popped in, Lesley. It's about time you had a trip to Paris 😉
Liz Brown
I enjoyed reading this and have decided it is now on my bucket list.
Jill Colonna
Haste ye back, Liz!
Ulrike
I spent a lovely afternoon there, enjoying slightly different goodies, but having to take a doggy bag home as well. A great treat, and, having worked my way through all of Proust’s masterpiece, I enjoyed all the little literary touches as well.
Jill Colonna
I think it has to be the most classiest of doggy bags ever, isn't it? So glad you managed to experience this too, Ulrike.