If you're looking for just one pastry street in Paris, most Parisians with a sweet tooth will guide you to Rue du Bac - also known as Paris Pastry Street. Situated on Paris's Left Bank (Rive Gauche) in the 7th Arrondissement, it has been a shopping street for centuries.
Where Best to Start our Pastry Walk
We'll discover the main pastry part of this street starting from the metro stop of Rue du Bac (line 12). Although the street starts at the Seine behind the Musée d'Orsay, the majority of shops are after this metro stop on the intersection of Boulevard Saint-Germain. However, there is a new addition to this section with Christophe Michalak! Check out his latest financier cakes with hazelnut and orange blossom.
If you're starting at the other end from Metro Sèvres-Babylone (line 10/12), start from the bottom of this post from La Grande Épicerie.
Chapon (et la Chocolaterie du Bac)
How many chocolate shops in Paris look like you could actually lick the storefront?
Patrice Chapon has been making his chocolate from "bean-to-bar" since 1985 from his workshop in Chelles, 20km north-east of Paris.
Originally a restaurant chef then pastry chef in Deauville, Monsieur Chapon was briefly official ice-cream maker to the Royal Family. The Queen Mother surprised him one day with rose petals from Buckingham Palace gardens, and asked him to make a sorbet with them (see my rhubarb sorbet with rose to feel royal).
It takes 10 days to make the chocolate as we see it in the store. Even the cacao growers in the tropics (10° North or South of the Equator) are amazed at what final result can be achieved from simple looking cacao beans.
Try a cornet of mousse from his popular chocolate mousse bar, initially created for the 2006 Salon du Chocolat in Paris. Choose from 5 kinds: the most intense Venezuelan 100% Chocolate Mousse (plus another with almonds), to 75% fruity, floral or smoky.
Check out his prize-winning chocolate with a salted dome (chocolat au dôme de sel) and praline Agates. For gooey, fudgy chocolate fondant cake then try the VSD: Vendredi Samedi Dimanche - but it never lasts that long!
Chocolaterie Chapon, 69 Rue du Bac, 75007 Paris
Boissier Paris
Since 1827, this confectionary shop has continued Bélisaire Boissier's dream of making the finest bonbons. It was Boissier who invented a new glaze technique, giving the first candied chestnut or marrons glacé recipe. No French household celebrates Christmas or Noël without them.
Their Marrons Glacés are chosen from Italy and given a French touch from plain to Cognac, pear liqueur with rum and chocolate. The famous bonbons Boule come in many flavours (violet, rose and coquelicot poppy are so very old French). Together with traditional candied almonds, chocolate petals and les Froufrous, they all make pretty gifts.
Check out the antique sweet boxes in the beautiful shop, as well as this original sweet dispenser of their bonbons boule.
Boissier Paris, 77 rue du Bac, 75007 Paris (Closed Sunday)
For more on candied chestnuts, see the Guide to Chestnuts.
Pierre Hermé, BeauPassage
Don't miss the opening on the left at N°53 rue de Grenelle (or at N°83 on rue du Bac, just before rue de Varenne) to BeauPassage's gourmet square. It's a good stopping point for lunch with a choice of several super eateries. But for teatime, a favourite stop is for macarons et al at the Pierre Hermé Café.
With so many of them now around Paris, this one has a quiet outside terrace amongst some greenery. Ideal if you're looking to hide from the paparazzi behind the totem-like statue, Les Mangoustes de Beauvais.
Thierry Marx Bakery, BeauPassage
Pop in next door to Thierry Marx's bakery to pick up this escargot choco-noisettes amongst other viennoiseries (croissants, pains au chocolat).
Prepared by the Tourier(e), they are the pastry chefs who specialise in the confection of the pastry dough. This gives the house their specific lamination for the puff pastry (pâte feuillétée) or brioche. Huge choice of excellent artisanal breads, sandwiches and seasonal fruit tarts.
Thierry Marx's Bakery, 17 allée du Beaupassage, 75007 Paris
Jacques Genin
Continuing on rue du Bac, just on the next corner to rue de Varenne, is Jacques Genin. Perhaps best known for his signature salted caramels, chocolates and fruit jellies, his exquisite pastries from his lab in the Marais's (rue de Turenne) can be ordered here for a weekend pick-up.
Try the green rhubarb, lychee and cassis fruit jellies. Although not made for a couple of years, he's even invented vegetable jellies. From cooling cucumber, pepper and beetroots' earthy sweetness, it's good to try something different. Although the originality of turnip didn't quite hit my spot.
Monsieur Genin loves demonstrating how cheeky he can become when chocolate is concerned. I can't resist this photo of him during the first Bac Sucré event, when he made chocolate bars with capers. The surprising saltiness of the capers came through on the aftertaste with a crunchiness in the chocolate that made quite a stir.
Meanwhile, his famous passion and mango caramels are always a sensation, along with honey/chestnut, pistachio. I stop here. Just taste them for yourself.
Jacques Genin, 27 Rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris (Closed Sunday/Monday)
Philippe Conticini
Pastry chef, Philippe Conticini opened his first patisserie in Rue du Bac, La Pâtisserie des Rêves. Now his savoir-faire has moved on to simply 'Conticini' around the corner on rue de Varenne.
A real privilege to meet chef Conticini himself a few times, he is most sincere when he explains how the critic scene in the Disney film, Ratatouille, was a turning point for him. He realised he could evoke the sweet tasting memories of childhood. Beautiful pastries but his trending craze is taking Paris by storm - the XXL! Fans of croissants and pain au chocolat are in for an XL treat - with 64% Trinitario chocolate at €37 for a whopping 900g or 2lb that fills a whole shopping bag!
Maison Philippe Conticini, 37 rue de Varenne, 75007 Paris (Closed Monday)
Des Gâteaux et du Pain
From a long family history of top chefs, Claire Damon is influenced by nature from her native Auvergne and l'Aveyron. She is the only women in the group of exceptional pastry chefs of Relais Desserts International. I had my first taste of her pastries on a Seine barge to celebrate the Bûches de Noël; her yule log included a light mousse with hay. Sheer bliss.
Alas, even after politely asking (as I always do in Paris - it's normal etiquette), strictly no photos are allowed inside her boutique.
Try her classics such as Shahzadeh (pistachio dacquoise & mousse with rose cream) - now also in ice cream form. Other specialities: Mont Blanc Cassis (with candied chestnuts from the Auvergne), and Pomme Tatin with Maple Syrup. As the boutique's name implies, she is also a demon bread maker.
Des Gâteaux et du Pain, 89 rue du Bac, Paris (Closed Tuesday)
Jean-Paul Hévin Chocolaterie
Hévin rhymes with heaven, doesn't it? No wonder, as Jean-Paul Hévin is not just Meilleur Ouvrier de France since 1986 but voted Best Chocolate Pastry Chef in the World in 2023-24 (WPS Milan). Always on my list of best macarons in Paris, try the award-winning extra bitter, Chocolat Amer, chocolate-raspberry and chocolate-yuzu.
He refers to chocolate as a "product that's alive and creative which is still evolving" (see his previous bûches de Noël as proof).
With 9 boutiques in Paris, he now has shops in Taiwan - and, with a staggering 13 boutiques in Japan, you'll find many Japanese influences in his flavours.
Pastries in the window are almost in competition with the intense chocolate classics, such as Princesse Chocolat-Vanille and his 'Pomme de Terre' (potato). Unlike a Scottish macaroon bar actually made with potato, it's thankfully less sweet, composed of dark chocolate ganache, walnuts, candied orange, rum raisins and marzipan.
Jean-Paul Hévin, rue du Bac, 75007 Paris (Closed Sunday/Monday)
Oh Oui! Low Sugar Pastries
Since June 2020, Oh Oui! has made quite a stir with "minimum sugar and ultimate pleasure". Don't be fooled by their small shopfront, as they have a super delivery service around France - now also available at Picard (frozen food store). They specialise in 30% less sugar than traditional pastries (some are up to 65% less sugar) and create flavourful pâtisseries that diabetics (type 1 & 2) can enjoy with a glycemic index (indice glycémique) between 27-32.
Not just for diabetics, this is for anyone who is sensitive to sugar in their diet, or just looking for a healthy alternative. Try the vanilla cheesecake or Allumette Truffée, a lovely contrast of textures and intense dose of chocolate with its layers of crumble and hazelnut ganache. Otherwise citrus fans will love the finger citron or pistachio-mandarine.
Oh Oui, 95 rue du Bac, 75007 Paris (Closed Tuesday)
For more, see my article on Pâtisseries for Diabetics in Paris
Oh My Cream
False alert. It's a skincare shop.
Angelina
It's always difficult to pass a pastry shop on rue du Bac when there's a fragrance of cakes oozing out of the air vents out on to the street! This is the surprising calmer boutique, a far cry from the queues and crowds on rue de Rivoli. Here there's no seating but take out one of the best hot chocolates in Paris with a pastry and sit in the park opposite.
Celebrating 120 years, don't miss the Mont-Blanc, Angelina's signature pastry since 1903. It's a mound of chestnut paste vermicelli encasing light whipped cream and a meringue heart. Normally crème de marrons (chestnut vanilla cream) is rather sweet but that's what makes top French pastry houses so special: they're surprisingly not too sweet with just the right sugar balance.
Like most patisseries, each season sees new pastries; expect to see some variation on the Mont-Blanc like coconut. Spot the chocolate, hazelnut and caramel podium cake for the Olympics.
Angelina, 108 Rue du Bac, 75007 Paris
See my article for more of their classic pastries and history.
Art fans look up! James McNeill Whistler lived in this building at N°108 from 1892-1901. Mathematician fans? Laplace died in the same building in 1827.
Bac à Glaces
The real McCoy: Parisian, homemade ice cream has been made here since 1955. With a choice of over 60 ice creams, they are all 100% natural (no additives, colouring, flavours, stabilisers, chemicals etc.) and include ice creams without eggs and vegan cones.
Natural stevia is used to sweeten their sorbets, so are ideal for those on a lactose-free diet. Try roasted Pistachio, Cinnamon, Gingerbread and Sesame Halva (same flavour profile as this black sesame ice cream). Cosy seating in their tea room. Taste their ice cream desserts, including many delicious variations to the Classic Vacherin Dessert.
Bac à Glaces, 109 rue du Bac, 75007 Paris
Foucher
Founded in 1819 on 126 rue du Bac (now the Nespresso shop), Louis-Aubin Foucher made his chocolate shop famous in the second half of the 19th century - notably for introducing international delivery from 1887.
Foucher was also the first French chocolate shop to open in Japan. As of 1902, delivery in Paris was popular with his chocolate-laden tri-cyles: imagine receiving a chocolate box from a Frenchie on a bicycle like the Onion Johnnies of Roscoff.
Pop in for their homemade hot chocolate (chocolat chaud), either to sit in or take away. Enjoy sitting in their quiet tea salon at the back of the shop. As it's next to the laboratory, you risk smelling the fragrances of pralines and caramel being prepared! Try the sesame praline chocolates, mendiants, candied chestnuts (marron glacés) steeped in Madagascan vanilla, or chocolate-covered cherries which have been macerated for months in liqueur.
Chocolat Foucher, 134 rue du Bac, 75007 Paris
La Grande Épicerie
At the end of the street is the famous gourmet food hall, La Grande Épicerie, at the corner of rue du Bac and rue de Sèvres. Luring us in with the best of French food via its deli, cheeses, caviar, teas, jams (Christine Ferber) and wine cellars - to its bakery, chocolate and patisserie sections. This is their original Parisian store, as part of le Bon Marché; the other food hall is situated in Rue de Passy, Paris 16th.
Their classic French pastry collection is exquisite. From lemon meringue tarts, Paris Brest, Saint-Honoré, l'Opéra, to the latest seasonal temptations, they provide cross-section drawings of each pastry. Plus they have some of the best macarons in Paris. Try their fig-raspberry; apricot-pistachio; strawberry-rhubarb, Tahitian vanilla and salted caramel macarons.
La Grande Épicerie de Paris (Rive Gauche)
38 Rue de Sèvres, 75007 Paris
Bac Sucré Annual Event (June)
Le Bac Sucré has been an annual event in June to promote the local artisans. Created by Florence Mazo Koenig and first inaugurated in 2015 by the Mayor of the 7th (Rachida Dati), the event highlights the creative artisans' savoir-faire. Alas, the event has been postponed in the last few years, but it's planned to continue in 2025.
P.S. None of the pastries and chocolates bought for this post were consumed all at once. We enjoyed avec modération, consumed at different times. For more, check out the lifestyle article, 5 Ways to Eat Like the French.
This post was first published 17 June 2015 but is now completely updated.
None of this post is sponsored.
June S
Oh my goodness Jill I can't wait to walk down this pastry street on my next visit. What a delight to visit it virtually though.
Betty
What an epic post, Jill! Just incredible! Certainly makes wish we could come back and indulge!
Jill Colonna
That's so very kind of you, Betty. Especially after the pandemic, I want to share what we can often take for granted in Paris.
Maureen | Orgasmic Chef
I'm glad you noticed that when chocolate is involved, everyone has a smile. 🙂
June S
Wish I could go with you and Lucie on Saturday. I feel I am there with the blog, thanks Jill.
Jill Colonna
Wish you could have been there - will write it up as soon as I can. We had a wonderful time today with Patrice Chapon explaining how he makes his chocolate from bean to bar. Fascinating.
LIz
Such fun!!! Capers in chocolate??? I need a taste 🙂
Jill Colonna
Liz, add rue du Bac to your girlie visit - it's a must address!
Anna
I tested the salmon Religieuse at Dalloyeau. Delicious and surprising,, I recommend it.
Jill Colonna
Thanks, Anna. I finally tasted it today and now I know what the yellow glaze is: it's natural due to the addition of curry powder! Delicious. Have put photos up on instagram. Also tried the crab-avocado and the tomato-pequillos. Great idea!
Parisbreakfast
So glad you came!
I so wanted to taste the Dalloyau savory pastries..
Wish yr pics were bigger
Jill Colonna
I had so many pics that's why I collaged them. Will make them slightly larger now, though, if that helps. Carol, thanks so much for pointing us here! Wanted to taste these savouries too from Dalloyau but no tasting in sight. Will be back ...
Jean-Pierre D
Would have loved to have been in Paris this week. Looking great. Thanks for the tour Jill.
Jill Colonna
Well hopefully you can be there via le blog Jean-Pierre and Betty...
Betty
OOoooh! Do so wish we were there this week! What fun!