Easy recipe for traditional Cullen Skink, a thick and creamy Smoked Haddock Soup from Cullen in Scotland.
Traditionally served on Scottish celebrations such as Burn's Night (25 January) or Saint Andrew's Day (30 November), or simply in Scottish restaurants. French friends particularly love this as a deliciously different starter in Winter. What's more, discover a tartan connection between Scotland and France near Paris.
Love this recipe. I made it, it was fabulous and, even if you're not a person who enjoys cooking, you can do this and impress your guests. - Liz
What is Cullen Skink? What Kind of Fish is Used?
Cullen Skink is a classic Scottish soup - much like a creamy, thick chowder. It's traditionally made using Finnan Haddie (Finnan Haddock), a cold-smoked haddock known for its smoking methods in North-East Scotland. However, most of the time it's made with un-dyed smoked haddock, potatoes and onion.
Why is it called Cullen Skink?
So why is this smoked haddock soup called Cullen Skink?
- Skink is a Gaelic, old Scottish term for soup or an essence - as it's wonderfully strong and flavourful.
- Cullen is a small fishing village on the Moray Firth on the North-East coast of Scotland. As it's where haddock is particularly popular, it's no surprise it's where the soup originated. So that's what the Cullen part means.
Cullen Skink Ingredients
Recipes do vary but the basic ingredients for traditional Cullen Skink are un-dyed smoked haddock (preferably a Finnan Haddie to be authentic), milk/cream, potato and onion. Most stop there but we add a bay leaf and fresh parsley, including the parsley stems for extra flavour.
There is no butter and salt isn't normally needed with the smoked fish.
As it's not always easy to find a Finnan Haddie, use smoked haddock. Alas, dyed is surprisingly the usual in France which tastes a bit different but it's still deliciously creamy, smoky and thick.
Milk or Cream?
In Scottish restaurants, I've had light versions but overloaded with potato chunks with not much fish. I've also had extra thick versions, loaded with heavy cream that by the time the main dish arrived, I'd already had my fill since it was too rich.
Personally, I prefer this with semi-skimmed milk (or half whole milk and water). The result is a creamy texture at only 190 calories a bowl.
For the potato, if you like a more firm variety, pick an all-rounder such as Charlotte, Yellow or Yukon Gold. However, we love a more floury potato to make the soup thicker. So pick from Russet, King Edward, Maris Piper, Desiree or Binje (See potato varieties in cooking).
Cullen Skink Recipe with Leeks
We love leeks and so often make it using a large leek or 2 small - just don't tell the purist folks in Scotland! If you prefer to make Cullen Skink the traditional way, use an onion instead.
What is Smoked Haddock in French?
Ideally traditional Scottish recipes call for Finnan haddock or undyed smoked haddock fillets. As it's not that easy to find them in France, I take the only smoked haddock I can find: dyed. It's simply called "Haddock" (pronounced 'addock - the French don't pronounce the 'H'). Years ago, when I called it Haddock Fumé with my Jane Birkin accent, I was corrected. So, just saying.
Otherwise, if you want plain, unsmoked haddock in France, it's known as Eglefin.
What do you Make with Smoked Haddock?
My mother's family was from a generation down the line of fisherfolk from Musselburgh on the East coast of Scotland (south of Edinburgh) and my grandfather sold fish from a van going down the coast from Portobello to Prestonpans. So we were used to having the best fish at home in Edinburgh. We'd often just have smoked haddock poached in milk - much like the beginning of this recipe.
Fishmongers at our French local market in Saint-Germain-en-Laye are surprised that I use smoked haddock to make soup. In fact, it surprises the French each time I tell them about this recipe. So, even if this recipe is in English, this is for you, Mesdames, Messieurs - and our French dinner guests who love this as it's something a bit different as a starter.
For something more classic, make these delicious smoked haddock fish cakes with homemade Tartare Sauce.
Scottish Tartan in France - A Wee Bit History
As a pure Scot myself and French citizen, I'm proud to show that there is a Scottish tartan in France. It continues the old alliance between the French and the Scots.
Since 1984, Saint-Germain-en-Laye (near Paris) has been twinned with Ayr in Scotland. This Scottish tartan, 'the Princess Mary', is the special tartan created in 2001 for the French and Scottish Twin Association between Ayr and Saint-Germain-en-Laye by the Queen's Chancellory and the Court of the Lord Lyon in Edinburgh.
The Scottish connection with France and Saint-Germain-en-Laye goes back to the young Mary Queen of Scots, who lived for a short while as a child with the young Dauphin in the Château of Saint-Germain. Later, with James VII of Scotland (II of England), the Stuart family lived here in exile, thanks to James's cousin, Louis XIV. James VII (grandfather of Bonnie Prince Charlie) stayed the rest of his life here and is buried in the church opposite the Château. As a result, it's a Stuart tartan.
For more about the royal town, see my introduction to Saint-Germain-en-Laye -
I highly recommend a day visit from Paris.
Did you know - there's an Old Alliance museum in France? In Aubigny-sur-Nère there's an annual Scottish-French festival, celebrating the Auld Alliance in France.
How do You Make a Cullen Skink?
This sounds like a joke, doesn't it: How to you make a Cullen Skink? It makes me think of the one, "How do you stop a skunk from smelling?" Answer: "Hold its nose."
For a Scottish saying, you're more likely to say, "Lang may yer lum reek", which is actually not a threat but a lovely way of wishing you a long and prosperous life, usually at New Year.
My favourite way of making this Cullen Skink soup has been a mix of many different approaches: I simply poach the fish in semi-skimmed milk and use no cream.
I only half blitz it with the hand mixer until smooth and creamy, so leave some chunks of potato (we love the texture of the mashed potatoes), then flake in the poached fish at the end, topping with chopped fresh parsley.
Easy Recipe, Step-by-Step
This is such an easy recipe for Cullen Skink, or a Scottish Smoked Haddock Soup/Chowder. It's expensive in many best Scottish restaurants but you can make it easily from scratch.
Put the smoked haddock, bay leaf and parsley stalks in a large pan and pour over the milk.
Cover and poach very gently over a low to medium heat for about 10 minutes (avoid overcooking the fish, otherwise it turns rubbery).
Take out the fish to cool on a plate, then add the potatoes and onion (or leek) and simmer until tender.
When cooked, remove the bay leaf and parsley stalks. Blitz the liquid to your preferred consistency (blitz more if you like it thicker), then flake in the fish to add that lovely texture. Add the chopped fresh parsley (at the end to preserve its flavour and vitamins) and serve immediately.
How to Serve and What to Drink with it
Serve this with some crusty bread - such as a plain baguette with butter.
I've been 'bowled over' (groan!) to discover that French friends find it an impressive dish served as a starter/appetizer. The soup's thickness and creaminess of the soup is comfort food at its best, but the smoky fragrance just gives it that something extra special.
Lean in and I'll let you in to a cunning secret. Serve small to medium-sized portions of this to start the meal, leaving friends wanting just a wee bit more.
As this soup is often enjoyed as part of a Scottish celebration menu, the best drink to pair with this is a Scottish Whisky. Us Scots like a good quality malted Whisky neat (no ice or mixers) with just a drop of pure Scottish water, so use a touch of mineral water to bring out the flavours.
Otherwise, with creamy smoked haddock, serve a French white wine that slices the richness. Top of the range would be a gutsy Bourgogne such as Mercurey or Condrieu from the Rhône. These are pricey so if you prefer something more down to earth from the south, a white Bandol or Cassis would pair well.
Can I Make Cullen Skink the Day Before?
Cullen Skink tastes even better the next day. It's an easy recipe for entertaining so make it the day before, cool then chill in the fridge and reheat gently.
The bonus? Cullen Skink freezes well for up to 2 months (as long as the fish wasn't previously frozen). Just defrost thoroughly before using.
Scottish Cullen Skink (Smoked Haddock Soup)
Equipment
Ingredients
- 300 g (10.5oz) Smoked haddock (1 large fillet, preferably a Finnan Haddie)
- 1 litre (1.5 pints/4 ¼ cups) semi-skimmed milk or ½ whole milk / ½ water
- 1 bay leaf
- few stalks parsley (keep the leaves for later)
- 1 large onion (or optional leek, white part only) finely chopped
- 500 g (2-3) potatoes see notes*
- ½ tablespoon fresh parsley leaves finely chopped
- freshly cracked black pepper to taste
Instructions
- Put the smoked haddock, bay leaf and fresh parsley stalks in a large saucepan and pour over the milk (keep parsley leaves for later).Cover and poach very gently over a medium-low heat for about 10 minutes (don't overcook the fish otherwise it will turn rubbery).
- Remove the fish with a slotted spoon and set aside on a plate to cool. Throw in the chopped potato and onion (or leek), cover and leave to cook gently until soft for 15-20 minutes.
- Meanwhile, take off the fish skin and flake the fish with your fingers, removing any bones.
- Remove the bay leaf and parsley stalks from the pan then half blitz the soup with a hand blender (or transfer to a liquidiser or food processor to blend and thicken) until the desired consistency. I like to blend only half way to have some chunks of potato. Add some pepper (a few turns of the pepper mill) and stir in the flaked smoked haddock and chopped parsley and gently heat. Only add some salt to your taste but not necessary with the smoky fish.
Notes
This post was originally published January 2016 but has now been updated with new images and text.
More Scottish inspiration? Make some cheese scones or try a Scottish-French dessert twist with these Cranachan parfaits.
David Scott Allen
My Nana used to make Cullen Skink -- it was her husband's grandmother's recipe (I do have a wee bit if Scottish blood in me...). I loved it but it is so hard ot find good smoked fish here in the desert. I will keep an eye out for some and have pinned your recipe. It looks so good!
And your post makes me wonder if my Nana's scone recipe also came from her husband's side. It would make sense. But they aren't half as beautiful as yours. As Julia Child would say, Nana's scones are "the country version." (Have you ever seen the Martha Stewart Christmas special in which she and Julia Child made Croquembouche? If you haven't, you must.)
Jill Colonna
Hi David,
Yes, I can imagine finding smoked haddock is hard enough in the desert, never mind a Finnan Haddie! Fingers crossed you find it, as this is so delicious. Thanks for the compliment on the scones - they like to rise to the occasion, especially with soup! 🙂
Thanks for the tip on the TV program - never seen it but will look it out. Jx
Mimi Rippee
I love Cullen skink! I’ve made it with Arbroath smokies, which are excellent Love all of your plaids!
Jill Colonna
absolutely wonderful for this Scottish fish soup, Mimi. Yes, on the tartan, I particularly love that Stuart one made for the French town, as it continues the Scottish history in France.
David Scott Allen
Cullen Skink is a family favorite — but no one in this generation has a recipe. My grandmother made it using her family’s recipe, and my mom made it, too. But never a written down recipe. I’ve used Christina’s before and now it’s time to try yours… once the weather cools off. (I hear it is still cold in Paris! — I have friends there who have been wearing winter coats!)
Jill Colonna
Agreed! My Granny only kept recipes of baking in her black book (I'm lucky enough to have it) - never the savoury dishes we had! Yes, I'm just back from amazing weather to see family in Edinburgh and returned to a much cooler Paris. It's insane that we're thinking of soup!
Liz Brown
Love this recipe. I made it, it was fabulous and, even if you're not a person who enjoys cooking, you can do this and impress your guests.
Jill Colonna
Thanks, Liz. Agreed - it's so easy to make and also much cheaper than you'd pay for in a posh restaurant!
Sandrine
Disclaimer : I usually cannot stand fish. But here, the meshing of smokey, flakey fish in a creamy broth is just heavenly. I was so sceptical but wanted something healthy and hearty for the new year, and it surpassed my expectations. Thank you Jill, my fish hating heart grew three sizes today
Lucie
A hug in a bowl. Best soup ever!
Jill Colonna
Awe - thanks Lucie. You can see it's so simple to make yourself x
Liz Brown
Absolutely love this soup. It tastes delicious and is really straightforward to make. Can’t get enough of it.
Jill Colonna
Thanks so much for your lovely feedback, Liz. So happy you like this one too.
Sandra Caroff
Easy and delicious, everyone asked for seconds. Thank you JILL
Jill Colonna
Thrilled you like this, Sandra. Thanks so much for popping in here.
Dawn Cruikshank
Hi am a fan of Cullen Skink - enjoying the occasional tin of a famous Speyside family’s gourmet soup or choosing off a menu when out. I live I inland from Cullen and are lucky to have a couple of fish vans which visit our area weekly. I found your recipe online and will give it a go - I’m confident it will be delicious....... thanks for the guidance!
Jill Colonna
Hi Dawn, I'm so happy you found this recipe! What with living near Cullen and with fresh fish on wheels - I can't think of a more pleasurable way to enjoy this smoky Scottish soup. Have a delicious weekend.
Linda
I wonder what my grandmother would have thought of the discovery of Cullen Skink! My mother's family, back down through the generations, were fisher folk on the Moray Firth coast, in the next village along from Cullen. Fishermen in those days didn't make the huge profits of today, or have the vast trawlers. Often my grandfather would return from a hazardous fishing trip round the north of Scotland with no money to give my grandmother for housekeeping. Cullen Skink was a staple in the household, and though basic, I have never found its match in a restaurant now that it has become fashionable. The basic recipe was a mix of smoked and unsmoked haddock, onions, potatoes, Carnation evaporated milk, water, salt and pepper. Never blended - the potatoes were cooked to the point where they started to disintegrate.
Jill Colonna
Linda, thank you so much for sharing your family history with us here - and so appropriate around the village of Cullen. How fascinating! My mother's family was also from a generation down the line of fisherfolk from Musselburgh and my grandfather sold fish from a van going down the coast from Portobello to Prestonpans. I know how this soup is more fashionable these days and no doubt not quite the same as the traditional basic but I love it to (sorry) bits! Wishing you a very Happy and delicious 2017.
Liz Brown
I'm loving this recipe Jill. I'm going to make it this weekend. My mouth's watering already.
Jill Colonna
Wonderful, Liz! Enjoy an extended St Andrew's night - bon weekend x
Brooks
Loving this informative post, Jill! Despite the challenge to photograph soup, you presented it nicely, and reading your voice is a joy. Glad you spent time in Scotland recently. Keep warm, my friend.
Jill Colonna
Reading your comment has made my day Brooks! Thank you. Yes, woke up to -4°C around Paris and heavy frost and looks like we're in for more.
Paris breakfast
Any warming soups are most welcome right now!!
I suppose you can use demi-creme as well? I've yet to see skimmed milk here..love to know your preferred brand of hand blender btw. I Must get one soon.
Cheers
Carolg
Jill Colonna
Hi Carol, yes semi-skimmed IS demi-creme (see the photo of ingredients on the label). My hand blender is just a cheap Moulinex one I picked up years ago in Carrefour. It's a horrible yellow colour and was hoping it would die on me to get a lovely fancy new one but no, it keeps on going...
Liz
I love smoked fish and this soup sounds delightful. I'm afraid poor old Bill might run for the hills if he came home to this for dinner, but I'd happily sip on a warm bowl of your lovely soup 🙂
Jill Colonna
I'm sure Bill would love the smell of this, though - and watching you eat it may turn him to like smoked haddie!
Jill Colonna
Thanks Christina. I can imagine you wanting to make Cullen Skink at this time of year too and bet you have yet another delicious version! It's so comforting and love how it's so easy yet has that wow factor. Let's try and encourage more good smoked haddock in France and in California!
Christina @ Christina's Cucina
This is on our menu this week! LOVE a good Cullen Skink and yours with leeks sounds fabulous! Wish it was more readily available to us in the US, especially on the west coast! Your guests are quite lucky, to say the least!