A Guide to the Best Tea Rooms in Paris
Looking for a list of top Paris Tea Salons for that perfect hot chocolate or a French pastry with a pot of tea? Then you’re 100% in the right place! Find your perfect tea time in Paris nearest to your favourite Parisian museums with my up-to-date personal selection of Parisian tea rooms.
Last updated: 12 January 2022.
Do the French have tea time?
The French have an official ‘snack’ time in the middle of the afternoon, called Goûter (pronouned goo-tay). This is normally enjoyed by school children coming out of school but adults often enjoy goûter too (although not necessarily every day, as it’s a treat!). It’s often tea, hot chocolate or other refreshment with a pastry/cake or macarons.
What do the French eat for afternoon tea?
The French don’t normally have a full-blown ‘Afternoon Tea’, as this is more British in style. My list below largely features tea rooms that serve typical French-style afternoon tea, hot chocolate or other refreshment with a pastry/cake or macarons.
Where Can I Eat a British-Style Afternoon Tea with Scones in Paris?
Looking for tearooms with a more English-style afternoon tea complete with dainty sandwiches, scones, and optional Champagne for a special occasion? These are most likely served in the many Parisian Palace hotels (e.g. the Ritz, Plaza Athénée, George V, Prince de Galles, The Peninsula, Le Bristol, le Crillon, Shangri-La, Burgundy’s Baudelaire…). For the more cosy tea rooms, you’ll find some that serve British style too (e.g. The Tea Caddy 5th and Miss Marple in the 7th, with scones and La Bossue in the 18th has cakes rather than pastries), listed below by arrondissement.
Many of these tea rooms are mentioned in my second book, Teatime in Paris with their corresponding specialities with recipes. Don’t see your favourite pastry shop in the list? That’s because many top pastry shops don’t have a tea room to sit down and enjoy their creations – so I recommend tasting them in the plenty of beautiful parks in Paris.
Are All Paris Tea Rooms Air Conditioned?
Not all tea salons have air conditioning so I’ve marked Tea Salons (AC) that are air conditioned. However, those that don’t have seating outside and are well aired.
Paris Tea Room Opening Times
Unless stated otherwise, all addresses below are open all week although opening times often risk changing, so I encourage you to check with their own website for details.
Many of the addresses below now also have (temporary) terrasses to enjoy outside eating.
This growing, updated list reflects my own choice of best tea rooms in Paris. Each offers a typical French teatime consisting of a pastry/cake or macarons with tea, hot chocolate or other refreshments. Happily, patisseries are increasingly including a bar area for a quicker teatime or goûter. Paris’s Grands Magasins (large department stores) also have teatime venues, so can have a shopping break with teatime too.
Whether you’re looking for value-for-money, casual to elegant patisserie salons or splashing out at the chic luxury Palace hotels, make yours a perfect tea time in Paris!
Paris 01 (Le Louvre)
Near Tuileries, Place Vendôme
This popular Belle Epoque institution is a mecca for sweet-toothed tourists – especially to taste Angelina’s famous “l’Africain” hot chocolate, one of the richest in Paris and a meal in itself. Angelina opened its doors in rue de Rivoli in 1903 and since then has been a favourite address with Parisian fashion celebrities. Just imagine being seated at the same marble table as Coco Chanel.
If you’re after something lighter than the hot chocolate, try their Mont-Blanc tea that accompanies their Mont-Blanc speciality of meringue, sweetened chestnut and cream. Great choice of classic, seasonal pastries and macarons. Out this 2021 season is the Mont-Blanc caramel, le Délice vanille & Le Voyage passion-ananas. Queues during holiday season can be crazy (although less on Tuesdays when le Louvre is closed) so reservations highly recommended. Their sister tea salon is in the Musée du Luxembourg (no tickets necessary to enter for tea – see below, Paris 6). See more details of Angelina’s famous pastries in my article. (AC)
Angelina Tea Room, 226 rue de Rivoli, Paris 1
CAMELIA CAKE SHOP
Pastry chef, Adrien Bozzolo takes the Saint Honoré pastry to contemporary artistic heights in his generous afternoon tea to celebrate the street where the legendary Parisian patisserie was invented by Chef Chiboust in 1847. Choose from a wide range of scones, sandwiches, cannelés, fruit desserts and Champagne option. Did you know it’s the original location of the most famous circus in Paris during la Belle Epoque, where Chocolat the clown hit stardom? See more details. Enjoy their new Winter Teatime with a special Gingerbread Mille-feuille with vanilla-tonka cream or candied apple caramel cake. (AC)
Camelia Cake Shop, Mandarin Oriental, rue Saint-Honoré, Paris 1
LE DALI, HÔTEL MEURICE
If you feel the need to splash out for a special occasion, then this ultimate afternoon tea, complete with savoury finger sandwiches and a Champagne option is the ultimate treat made by the World’s top pastry chef (2018), Cédric Grolet. Taste his legendary pastry artworks of fruit look-a-likes, from lemons to hazelnuts. If that’s not enough, warm financiers or madeleines are served throughout teatime. More details here. (AC)
Le Dali, Hôtel Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli, Paris 1
FRENCH TEATIME AU RITZ
There are two kinds of afternoon tea at the Ritz: the full monty English-style served with finger sandwiches and cakes but personally, I adore the French teatime that takes place in the Salon Proust (Much more in detail on my tea time at the Ritz.) It’s an unforgettable treat.
Under the watchful portrait’s eye of Marcel Proust, enjoy typical French biscuits and cakes from Proust’s era, where he sat by his favourite fireplace and enjoyed his legendary Madeleines, which are given – quite rightly – centre stage here. (AC)
French Teatime (Thé à la française)
Ritz Hotel, 15 Place Vendôme, Paris 1
Opened in May 2019 as a sit-down venue rather than Olivier Stehly’s Montparnasse bar, this boutique is just a stone’s throw from Châtelet Les Halles. This is not cutesy old-fashioned Paris nor cosy but if it’s fun, delicious pastries in a modern setting you’re after, this is it. His signature mushroom pastry is excellent. The ‘1 Up’ mushroom is full of blackcurrants in a vanilla mousse. Love the novel large round table with a centre-piece woodland. Great choice of macarons too. Part of Les Citadines hotel next door. Small selection of Kusmi teas and latte coffee good.
Tip: be sure not to sit in front of the sliding door on a cold day. (AC)
Olivier Stehly, 4 rue des Innocents, Paris 1
(sortie 1 Châtelet Metro)
Passed on from father to son since 1955, Daniel Gaudard said of his son, Sebastien, “While other children were playing with playdough, my son was playing with almond paste”. While the main boutique is in rue des Martyrs, luckily for us if you’re visiting Le Louvre, the tea salon is just across from the Tuileries Gardens (behind the golden statue of Jean d’Arc). Looking at the pastries in the window, it resembles an image from a Christmas chocolate box. The Salon de Thé upstairs has been refurbished with 2-3 tables downstairs and tables outside. Ensure you get there before it gets popular around 4pm, as teatime is served between 3-5pm (open also for breakfast and lunch).
Try le Mont Blanc, Merveilleux, Duchesse Café (coffee éclairs), Paris Brest or lemon tart classics or, my personal favourites, Le Cerisier with its almond genoise sponge, pistachio cream with slightly acidic Griotte cherries all topped off with caramelised almonds, or Mussipontain, an almond speciality created by Daniel Gaudard, with vanilla cream and caramelised almonds. There are also seasonal pastries – the autumnal spiced chestnut pumpkin (potimarron) tarts are simply divine! His Kougelhopf is one of the top 3 in Paris – so get some for tomorrow’s breakfast if you don’t have room to try them all. (AC)
Sébastien Gaudard, 1 rue des Pyramides, Paris 1
One of the oldest patisseries in Japan came to Paris in 1980 to spread the custom of enjoying wagashi (Japanese traditional cakes to accompany Matcha green tea – more details in my article, Teatime in Japan). Typical flavours include dorayaki pancakes with azuki (red bean paste), as well as their similar tasting delicious macarons. Hot chocolate with Matcha a speciality (Yokan), as is the buckwheat tea (Soba-Tcha), which was a real hit even with my non-tea-drinking husband! (AC) Closed Sunday.
Toraya, 10 rue Saint-Florentin, Paris 1
SMITH & SON CAFÉ
Previously known as the Twinings Tea Room, the new first floor café of the English-speaking bookshop (previously WHSmith Paris) overlooks rue de Rivoli. This is my quiet haven – hard to believe just a block away from Concorde and the bustle of rue Royale! Pretend you’re travelling by old-style steam train in the middle section: the decor is nicely done and well spaced out. Great for a pot of tea and wedge of British-style cake, although choice is limited (the cheesecake when I was there was homemade, otherwise a gluten free carrot cake). Two teatime options such as the Bronte both include scones. Lunches also served (mainly around British cheddar and toasties). Lovely memories here of my first book event in Paris for Mad About Macarons! If you don’t see Teatime in Paris, please do ask them for it, as the last time I visited they were out of stock 😉 . (AC)
Smith & Son 1st Floor, Rue de Rivoli, Paris 1
Paris 02 (Bourse)
Near Stock Exchange, Grands Blvds
Situated along Paris’s most influential Japanese street on rue Sainte-Anne, this more casual address has an impressive collection of Japanese-style cakes, such as Strawberry Shortcake, Matcha Chiffon Cake, Yuzu Crêpe Cake, Dorayaki and all sorts of Matcha specialities, including éclairs, plus Neji Neji praline, strawberry, chestnut and azuki breads. Only disappointment is that for sitting in, many drinks are still served in plastic but seating is comfortable and spacious.
During a summer heatwave, try the iced Yuzu Thé Glacé or Matcha Latte. (AC) Closed Sunday.
Aki Café, 75 rue Sainte-Anne, Paris 2
Ever since I tasted the most exquisite Doriyaki pancakes in Japan filled with anko, the perfect concoction of lightly sweetened azuki red bean paste, I’ve been looking for the equivalent experience in Paris. Here at Tomo is a real gastronomic pleasure that takes the Dorayaki to another level, topping the fluffy Japanese pancake with delicious edible art (e.g. lemon & yuzu). Try the traditional dorayaki but the seasonal specials are a must.
The most exquisite of Japanese teatime patisserie, their ‘wagashi’ (mini cakes) are all around the seasons with Matcha green tea, yuzu, sesame and plum flower to accompany their teas.
For more on Japanese teatime, see my article, Teatime in Japan. Closed Monday. (AC).
Tomo, 11 Rue Chabanais, Paris 2
Paris 03 (Marais)
Near Place des Vosges, Carnavalet Museum
BONTEMPS (Jardin Secret)
A most delightful hidden jewel named the Secret Garden, north of the Marais in a cobbled courtyard, next to their patisserie. With a light fragrance of orange blossom, plenty of light, flowers, greenery and mirrors, it has a real happy feel-good ambience. Don’t miss their speciality: lightly salted sablés, from biscuits to beautiful pastries constructed around them. I love not only their fruit tarts but try the Mont Blanc in both winter (classic with chestnut, cream infused with Earl Grey tea) or summer (the lightest whipped vanilla Chantilly cream served with Gariguette strawberries). Not just a relaxed tea salon but great for breakfast, brunch and light lunches too (see more in my article on Bontemps) – just don’t come without trying the pastries! Seating also outside in the courtyard. (AC) Closed Mon/Tues.
Bontemps, 57 Rue de Bretagne, Paris 3
Opened in the Marais in 2010. See description below for the original Trocadero address, Paris 16. However, I prefer this salon de thé to Trocadero, as it is less crowded and cosier in the cooler months. (AC)
Carette, 25 Place des Vosges, Paris 3
FOUCADE (Gluten-free, vegan, allergen-friendly)
See post below in Paris 17 for details, as their main workshop is on rue des Moines.
Foucade Paris, 61 rue de Bretagne, Paris 3
Since listing as part of my favourite Paris tea salons, Chef Genin (since June 2019) stopped the plush tearoom for a tasting area, where you can sit briefly to enjoy the gourmet experience and perhaps share the experience with the chef himself. It’s hard not to marvel at the staircase, leading up to his lab. Sink in to a velvet hot chocolate, try his éclairs, lemon, lime & basil tart and don’t leave without tasting the legendary exotic caramels (try ginger, raspberry, and mango-passion) plus the best fruit jellies (rhubarb, cassis), including savoury. In summer, try his freshly made ice-creams based on fruits, spices and herbs, served in crispy dentelle or langue-de-chat cones. More in my article on Genin. (AC) Closed Monday.
Jacques Genin Salon de Thé, 133 rue de Turenne, Paris 3
An informal British teatime is served at the T’Cup, around the corner from Place des Vosges. Homemade scones. I still have to go here, so looking forward to filling my cup and telling you about this place.
T’Cup, 16 Rue des Minimes, Paris 3
Paris 04 (Bastille)
North of Notre Dame, Pompidou Centre, Bastille – Marais
LE LOIR DANS LA THÉIÈRE
Literally a dormouse in the teapot, this real cosy, Mad Hatter Alice-in-Wonderland spot in the Marais is included in my book’s Parisian Annex guide. Nothing fancy; just a good, classic French goûter with a laid-back ambience with rather worn sofas. Particularly good crumbles and Tarte Bourdaloue.
Le Loir dans la Théière, 3 rue de Rosiers, Paris 4
Enjoy a quick stop and grab a stool to enjoy the mouthwatering wonders from this foxy (his signature is a renard) rising star of pastry in his relatively new boutique on this historical pedestrian street. Try his rectangular chocolate éclairs, lemon & lime meringue tart that’s far from square, Madagascan Vanilla Flan or the ultimate Baba au Rhum with a vanilla riz au lait (rice pudding). Also at Galeries Lafayette Gourmet on Boulevard Haussmann. (AC)
Yann Couvreur, 23bis Rue des Rosiers, Paris 4
Paris 05 (Panthéon)
Near Jardins des Plantes, Panthéon, South of Notre Dame
AUX PORTES DE L’ORIENT (Paris Mosque)
After a visit to the Grand Mosque of Paris and its lush rose garden with tranquil fountains, this veritable oasis has a welcome tea salon just behind the mosque. Enjoy authentic oriental pastries and mint tea either served inside under the cedar arches on comfy seating or amongst the birds chirping in the quiet courtyard.
It’s also an ideal teatime spent following a visit to the Jardins des Plantes (botanical gardens), just across the road.
La Mosquée de Paris, 9, rue Saint-Hilaire, Paris 5
A. LACROIX PÂTISSIER
A great wee spot with a fabulous view and right opposite Notre Dame. Good ground coffee, a selection of teas and delectable pastries, including macarons made by pastry chef, Arnaud Lacroix. Try one of the specialities, Le Notre Dame, a realistically shiny green apple patisserie with a hidden filling of green apple mousse and confit with a moist almond cake. Good English spoken. (AC)
A.Lacroix Pâtissier, 11 Quai de Montebello, Paris 5
THE TEA CADDY
One of the rare Oh-so-British style, cosy tea salons, just across from Notre Dame. It’s so British in feel, that it’s hard to believe you’re in Paris! Founded by Miss Klinklin in 1928, enjoy a range of British teas, cakes, tarts and scones with clotted cream.
English spoken. (AC)
The Tea Caddy, 14 Rue Saint-Julien le Pauvre, Paris 5
Paris 06 (St Germain-des-Prés)
Saint Germain, Luxembourg Gardens
Pastry Chef Guillaume Gil (ex Ferrandi cooking school) changes his pastries according to season so regularly that it’s easy to return and discover so many new delicacies on the teatime menu. Their hot chocolate is excellent and great value. Ask for tonka shavings for that je ne sais quoi. (AC) Closed Monday.
Colorova, 47 Rue de l’Abbé Grégoire, Paris 6
IL GELATO DEL MARCHESE
Alas, this elegant Italian tea salon has closed but the good news is they moved just next door! In summer, outside seating only in the the bustling Saint Germain des Prés area. Feast on luxury Italian gelati with natural, organic ice creams (my favourite is the Sicilian pistachio) and fabulously fruity sorbets.
Exquisite with the most delicious homemade wafers just fresh off the griddle, which wafts around the tearoom. Enjoy a small selection of Italian pastries with a wide range of teas. More details in my post. (AC)
Il Gelato del Marchese, 3 rue des Quatre Vents, Paris 6
It’s hard not to bump in to Ladurée on any trip to Paris, as the boutiques are now all over, including at the airports! Although not historical as its location, the Bonaparte tea salon evokes what Louis Ernest Ladurée set out to achieve with his first tea room-Patisserie in Rue Royale in 1871. Enticing French ladies to take tea in the afternoon with a pastry, it would be a real wardrobe-changing event. Today, known for their macarons and believed to have been the creators behind the first Gerbet Parisian macaron in the 1900s, my favourites are vanilla and orange blossom. Pastry-wise it’s the Réligieuse à la Rose, two choux buns filled with a rose pastry cream (recipe in Teatime in Paris) and served in style with the silver. If you take milk in your tea, be prepared to pay a small surcharge. (AC)
Ladurée Paris Bonaparte Tea Room, 21 rue Bonaparte, Paris 6
Tucked away in a little passageway, this cosy tearoom is a quiet haven away from the tourist bustle of Saint Germain-des-Prés. Excellent hot chocolate, wide range of teas from le Palais des Thés and family-style French dessert classics such as clafoutis, chocolate fondant, fruit tarts and the lightest French-style cheesecake (gateau de fromage) that just melts in the mouth with a touch of coulis on the side.
(No AC but as it’s in a courtyard passageway in the shade, air circulates).
L’Heure Gourmande, 22 Passage Dauphine, Paris 6
Sister tea room of the popular Angelina’s on rue de Rivoli, this smaller address in the Musée de Luxembourg has a contemporary decor with all the pastries and frills in the heart of the Luxembourg gardens. Try la Demoiselle tatin, seasonal Millefeuilles or a chestnut crêpe filled with their crème de marrons as well as their famous classics. More on Angelina.
No entrance ticket needed to access the tea room.
Mademoiselle Angelina, 19, rue de Vaugirard, Paris 6
As the name implies, this real family-style nostalgic ambience has you indeed believing you’ve stepped into a welcoming French Granny’s home on a Sunday to taste her succulent cakes in a school-like decor. Excellent teas, bowls of hot chocolate and wonderful ambience, with their brocante store next door. Closed Monday.
Mamie Gateaux, 66 rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris 6
Two brothers, Henri et Edouard Mariage, started up this tea house in 1854 and for more of their story, head upstairs to the tea museum. This is the little brother of three tearooms (the others in rue du Bourg Tibourg, Paris 4 & in rue Cler, Paris 7) but I have a penchant for this one as it’s quieter and a great spot next to the Seine after a long walk around Saint Germain-des-Prés. Cakes are tea-inspired such as financiers, madeleines and cannelés (recipes in my book) plus scones and French waffles are served with tea-infused jams. (AC)
Mariage Frères, 13 rue des Grands-Augustins, Paris 6
UN DIMANCHE À PARIS
I always enjoyed finishing off my chocolate-pastry tours here, as after a long walk it would be the ideal spot to have one of the best hot chocolates in Paris, served in a modern but traditional Moussoir complete with plunger to mousse it up. Teas are served with tea-timers and although a contemporary decor, the major feature of the tea salon is the lit up original part of the Medieval wall that surrounded Paris. Pierre Cluizel ensures that all items on the menu (not just the teatime menu) include chocolate in some form. Nibble on the chocolate pearls with coriander and imagine that with a slow-cooked curry, added just at the end of cooking. Always a gluten-free pastry in season with a wide range of delicate pastry artworks that can often be seen in preparation behind the glass window of the lab. (AC)
Un Dimanche à Paris, rue Paris 6
Paris 07 (Eiffel Tower)
Near Ecole Militaire, les Invalides, Orsay Museum, Rue du Bac
BAC À GLACES
The real McCoy: Parisian, homemade ice cream has been made here since 1955. With a choice of over 60 ice creams, they are all 100% natural (no additives, colouring, flavours, stabilisers, chemicals etc.) and include ice creams without eggs. Natural stevia is used to sweeten their sorbets, so are ideal for those on a lactose-free diet too. For those who prefer their sorbets with alcohol, you’re covered too! Our favourite classics? Roasted Pistachio, Cinnamon, Gingerbread and Sesame Halva (have you tried my black sesame ice cream yet?).
Cosy seating is also available inside in their tea room, where you can also taste their ice cream desserts, including many delicious variations to the Classic Vacherin Dessert. Vegans will be happy to hear their cones are made for them too!
Bac à Glaces, 109 rue du Bac, Paris 7
CAFÉ PIERRE HERMÉ BEAUPASSAGE
Enter via the trendy courtyard area of Beaupassage from Rue du Bac (see my article on Paris’s Pastry street of Rue du Bac). It’s a beautiful passageway – almost secret that unravels an exciting plethora of new cafés and restaurants where you can eat indoors or outside on the terrace. So hide between the foliage with your pastry or macarons and tea or coffee.
Café-Restaurant Pierre Hermé, Beaupassage, 53-57 rue de Grenelle, Paris 7
Looking for a quick stop for fabulous hot chocolate (chocolat chaud) around rue du Bac? Foucher have a small seating area at the back of their boutique for sit-in tastings, otherwise they offer take-out for a pick-me-up.
Foucher, 134 rue du Bac, Paris 7
LES DEUX ABEILLES
The two bees create a real buzz with their extra thick hot chocolate topped with the lightest of Chantilly cream. Amidst old-fashioned decor, white tablecloths and textile-flowered walls, try the lemon meringue tarts, or Fondant au Chocolat. Closed Sunday.
Les Deux Abeilles, 189 rue de l’université, Paris 7
Looking for Karamel on rue Saint-Dominique? Sadly, Breton chef Nicolas Haelewyn closed the doors of this lovely tea room in May 2020 but you’ll find him now in Guyancourt at Atelier Gâto.
See article on pastry shops and tea rooms on Rue Saint-Dominique.
LE JARDIN DE MADEMOISELLE
This charming tea shop and tea room on the Invalides side of rue Saint-Dominique is very small but incredibly sweet, run by Aline and Floriane. With very little tables (there were only 4 when I last visited), there’s no room for prams or trotinettes but that’s also why we like it – along with the fluffy cushions. Teatime offerings have a more British ambience with scones (cream and jam), carrot cake, pecan pancakes and a cookie of the day. More French: chocolate fondant, financiers and a gâteau du jour. Tea fans will love the huge selection but also a great choice of coffee with speciality lattes and hot chocolates – fans of chestnuts? This is your address, as they love making chestnut versions of their fondant cake, as a latte and hot chocolate. Ensure you book for their brunch, the first Saturday of the month.
Le Jardin de Mademoiselle, 69 bis, rue Saint-Dominique, Paris 7
MARIAGE FRÈRES – TOUR EIFFEL
Originally set up by the Mariage brothers, Henri & Edouard in 1854, this tea room is near the Eiffel Tower on the pedestrian street of rue Cler at Ecole Militaire. All cakes are tea-inspired such as financiers, madeleines and cannelés (recipes in my teatime book) plus scones and French waffles are served with tea-infused jams. (AC)
Tend to close over the summer holidays so check with their website.
Mariage Frères, 56 rue Cler, Paris 7
This rather Oh-so-British teatime address, based on Agatha Christie’s famous personnage is the height of French elegance in the 7th. Scones with jam and cream, crumble, orange cake for example are just some of the treats on the menu. Also open for a British-style breakfast, lunch and dinner.
(Not AC but well aired from both sides of the tea room). Closed Monday.
Miss Marple, 16 Avenue de la Motte Piquet, Paris 7
If you’re not far from the Eiffel Tower, head to a most gourmet block on rue Saint Dominique as it’s so less touristy and if you’re like me and adore Japanese-influenced French pastries, then Aoki is your address. In true Japanese ambience, it’s relaxed and quiet at the back of the boutique. More details on Sadaharu Aoki’s pastries but try the ‘Bamboo’, Chef Aoki’s clever chocolate & green tea Japanese take on an Opéra pastry, the ‘Zen’ with a sesame pastry, topped with sesame creams, white chocolate and Cognac, plus the ‘Forêt Verte Kyoto’, a boozy cherry Matcha slice of green tea velvet – not too sweet, just sublime. Eclairs, cream choux buns and macarons are in all infused with different favourite Japanese teas. (AC) Also in Galeries Lafayette Gourmet. Closed Monday.
Sadaharu Aoki, 103 rue Saint Dominique, Paris 7
For more patisseries near the Eiffel Tower, read my article on Best Pastries on Rue Saint-Dominique.
Paris 08 (Champs-Elysées)
Near Grand Palais, Arc de Triomphe, Madeleine, Gare St Lazare, Parc Monceau, Jacquemart André Museum
This new Mediterranean addition in Paris has had a lot of hype following designer Simon Porte Jacquemus and Caviar Kaspia’s provencal ambience on the 1st floor of Galeries Lafayette and I’ve added it here just to keep this listing up to date. Although open at all hours for breakfast, lunch and cocktails, it’s teatime that brings me here to enjoy Stohrer’s pastries (the oldest Parisian patisserie), calissons and nougats of À la Mère de Famille plus the crème de la créme, ‘Citron’ by Cédric Grolet (celebrity pastry chef of le Meurice), the incredible lemon look-a-like – although be prepared to pay 25 euros for the piece if you don’t want to queue at his boutique on rue de Castiglione.
(AC but don’t sit at the window overlooking the Champs-Elysées, as it gets very hot here!)
Café Citron, Galeries Lafayette, 60 Avenue Champs-Elysées, Paris 8
CAFÉ PIERRE HERMÉ 86 CHAMPS
New and trendy café from Pierre Hermé on the Champs Elysées. Take out available too from his pastry shop. Perfect spot for people watching on the terrace with a couple of macarons and pastry.
86 Champs, 86, avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris 8
If you don’t want to fight for a rare seat at their Printemps boutique on Boulevard Haussmann, then head to Place de la Madeleine, a veritable 18th century palace on three floors. For a taste of Parisian Russia, Café Pouchkine’s pastries will transport you through their Tsar-like temptations. Using typically Russian pastry ingredients, such as caramel, milk cream, buckwheat and buckwheat honey, there’s a magnificent fusion of Russian and French savoir-faire. Try their specialities such as Medovick, Pavlova, Napoléon, blueberry Bostock, Vatrouchka, Prianick spiced biscuits and of course, their macarons! (AC)
Café Pouchkine, 16 Place de la Madeleine, Paris 8
This was the first tea salon in Paris in 1820 to open its doors by the Dalloyau family in the same spot, which previously housed the first Maison de Gastronomie for 18 years. Members of the Dalloyau family (continuing over 4 generations) had the honour of serving Louis XIV, who was one of the first amateurs of drinking French tea. In 1955, however, Cyriaque Gavillon (a descendent) created the Opéra pastry here, the rectangular layered coffee sponge cake sandwiched with coffee buttercream and chocolate ganache. More in my book! One of my favourites is their Fraisier. (AC)
Dalloyau, 101, rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, Paris 8
If you’re a fan of teatime and you haven’t been here yet, then I urge you to treat yourself. Not just for the choice of scrumptious pastries made by Stohrer, the oldest patisserie in Paris (try a slice of their macaron cake), but also for the grandeur of the surroundings. Although part of the museum, the café is accessible independently of the museum in the mansion’s former dining room.
Don’t forget to look up at the ceiling and admire Tiepolo’s fresco and the walls of which are decorated with 5 18th-century Flemish tapestries evoking the story of Achilles.
The Café, Jacquemart-André Museum, 158 Boulevard Haussmann, Paris 8
Paris 09 (Opéra)
Near Opéra Garnier & North to Pigalle
Ice-cream fans will enjoy a great selection of homemade ‘glaces artisanales’ – from spicy pineapple, grapefruit-mint, to orange blossom with dates. Choose from cones, tubs or – my favourite – sandwiched in a Japanese-style Monaka, a floral rice-flour wafer. There’s even a choice of wacky seats from velvet sofas to wicker-basket chairs in the calm upstairs. Try their delicious pastries too – although so far, it’s difficult to get past the ice-creams! (AC)
Glacier 1891, 59 rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, Paris 9
HELMUT NEWCAKE (Gluten Free)
Everything is certified organic and 100% gluten free. Try their house speciality, “La Madame de Fontenay,” a coffee Religieuse (also exists in chocolate) which is so good, it’s bluffing that there’s no gluten in the re-worked choux pastry. I successfully blind-tested a selection (including the corn bread) on my children, the ultimate test. Chef Marie Tagliaferro also makes Parisian macarons on the weekends. Quiches, pizzas, burgers to risottos are proposed for lunch and reservations for Sunday brunch are recommended. (AC) Closed Sunday/Monday.
Helmut Newcake, 28 rue Vignon, Paris 9 and now on Rue du Bac
I have a soft spot for Le Valentin, as it was one of my first exciting discoveries in Paris before it became really popular next to the Musée Grevin (I learned about it from an acupuncturist who was trying to cure my back!). Located in one of Paris’s oldest roofed Passages (1845), ensure you grab a table and sofa upstairs with the old-fashioned lampshades and peruse the enormous tea menu, complete with serving suggestions with the appropriate cakes, such as the Polonaise, tarts (try the Chiboust) and macarons. (AC)
Le Valentin, 30 passage Jouffroy, Paris 9
ROMANTIC MUSEUM TEA ROOM / ROSE BAKERY
Great news since my book, Teatime in Paris was published. The Rose Bakery have taken over the tearoom and it’s now also open all year round. Expect to find more English-style treats such as scones or carrot cake with tea. Nothing fancy in terms of seating but the rose garden setting is beautiful and the museum is free! Closed Monday.
FYI – the Rose Bakery is also in le Bon Marché Department Store (AC) and in Rue des Martyrs.
Musée Romantique, 16 rue Chaptal, Paris 9
Paris 10 (Gare du Nord)
Near Gare de l’Est
Relatively new on le block as the 4th location in Paris, this is where the Masterclass workshops take place (why doesn’t he keep the K theme and call it MasterKlass?) behind the boutique. Sit and gaze at the ‘fantastik’ range of Christophe Michalak’s pastries. My favourites? Tarte Pomme Tatin with a Calvados pastry cream hidden underneath the most beautiful, shiny caramelised apple and finished off with crumble. Also try his beautifully light signature, Mon Koeur, a work of art on its own: Caribbean chocolate cream with exotic fruit compote, yuzu cream and milk chocolate mousse. Frankly, I dream of taking off on his chocolate space-ship! (AC) Closed Sunday.
Michalak Café, 60 Faubourg Poissonnière, Paris 10
Paris 11 (North Marais)
CHAMBELLAND (Gluten Free)
Nathaniel Doboin and Thomas Teffri-Chambelland did indeed rise to the baking challenge in 2014 when they set up this emerging segment specialising in 100% gluten free breads. To ensure their flours are entirely gluten-free, they even built their own mill (in the Haute-Provence region); flours are made from organic rice, buckwheat, sorghum and millet.
Although essentially a boulangerie, this bakery has a seating area to relax and enjoy their cheesecakes, lemon meringue, chocolate lava cakes and chocolate tartlets. I loved their brownies so much, I posted this gluten-free pistachio brownie recipe from them here. Chouquettes are labeled as “gourmands et légèeeeeeres”, along with muffins and poppy seed cookies. (No AC but with a terrasse). Closed Monday.
Chambelland, 14 Rue Ternaux, Paris 11
Following Cyril Lynac’s (French TV celebrity pastry chef) boutique nearby, together with Benoit Couvrand they’ve created a new concept for chocolate lovers: a cocoa lounge. With a large guest table and two sunny terraces, choose from a worldwide selection of vintage chocolate bars, chocolate viennoiseries and candy bars. (AC)
La Chocolaterie, 25 rue Chanzy, Paris 11
LE TEA BAR, Betjeman & Barton
The first tea bar in Paris, near the Cirque d’Hiver. Fans of this British tea house will be happy to choose from 150 varieties of tea (plus iced & monthly bubble teas) to either sit in the modern, bold setting or order a ‘Tea to Go’. British style cakes served.
Closed Sunday. (AC)
Betjeman & Barton Tea Bar, 24 boulevard des Filles du Calvaire, Paris 11
Paris 13 (Buttes-aux-Cailles)
L’OISIVETHÉ ET TRICOT
Hidden behind the bustle of Place d’Italie is the student ambience of Les Buttes-aux-Cailles. This charming little corner wool shop happens to serve a wide range of teas (including Damman) plus a small choice of desserts and a cake du jour. I particularly enjoyed their semi-fermented Oolong with chestnut, a perfect sweet and sane sip for Autumn. Seating is so close, expect to become friendly with your teatime neighbour, a real delight if you want to start conversing over knitting and take it to the ‘next row’. Personally, I hope to see them cover their teapots in winter with their own knitted tea-cosies. Closed Monday.
L’Oisivethé, 1 rue Jean Marie Jégo, Paris 13
Paris 16 (Monet Museum)
Near Trocadéro, Museums Marmottan Monet, Guimet & Yves Saint Laurent
Jean Carette opened his art déco tea salon in Trocadero in 1927. His wife’s portrait looks on the salon, as teatime is served with elegance and flowers on the table. I think it’s the tartest lemon tart I’ve ever had: the one that puckers up the mouth for minutes after a forkful, a real treat with any of their teas chosen from Damman frères. Of course, try their legendary macarons such as salted caramel or lemon (they’re good at doing lemon!) and watch the world go by – either at Trocadero or on Place des Vosges. (AC)
Carette, 4 Place du Trocadero, Paris 16
LA BAUHINIA, HÔTEL SHANGRI-LA
Pastry chef, Maxence Barbot serves up the lightest, seasonal French pastries for dessert and teatime.
Teatime is now on Saturdays and Sundays (3-6pm), when they prepare an iconic 3 tiers of cakes and savouries.
All in a grand setting in the former palace of Prince Roland Bonaparte (grand-nephew of Napoleon), listed as a National Historical Monument.
With Betjeman and Barton, plus Dilmah teas from Sri Lanka (Ceylon) and China, including black (plus Ceylon Grand Crus in order of strength), green, white, blue, red and herbal infusions. See much more in my article about the palace. (AC)
Shangri-La Palace Hotel, 10 Avenue d’Iena, Paris 16
It took me a while to realise the play on words in French (tu es cool), as I’d pass this tearoom many a time for 10 years when I worked nearby. Hidden behind Rue de Passy’s shopping mecca, this is where the 16th ladies head for the goûter in a relaxed, elegant atmosphere. Enjoy a variety of cakes, the lemon meringue tart and their speciality? La Starlette: Cheesecake made with 0% fromage blanc, no eggs, sugar, no flour or butter (I still end up going for the normal ones – but if you’ve tried it, let me know!) Closed Sunday.
Thé Cool, 10 Rue Jean Bologne, Paris 16
Hidden between the Ranelagh gardens where there’s the Marmottan Monet museum and not far from the Maison Balzac, this has been my go-to tea room at La Muette for a taste of Tokyo since I worked nearby for 10 years. Nothing much has changed since then: the lightest classic pastries (opéra, variety of choux, and try the caramel millefeuille!) as well as the lightest Japanese-style sponge cakes. All served with Benjamin and Barton teas, this small salon has a hidden area at the back if you want to avoid the paparazzi and listen to the whispers of Japanese by loyal locals.
Yamazaki, 6 Chaussée de la Muette, Paris 16
Paris 17 (Batignolles)
Near Palais de Congrès
FOUCADE (Gluten-free, vegan, allergen-friendly)
Marjorie Fourcade’s healthy “Patisserie Positive” focuses on natural ingredients for an all gluten-free cast, low in fat and sugars with many pastries dairy-free. Emphasis is on fresh fruit and also vegetables, such as beetroot and sweet potato, to sweeten or colour the cakes naturally by chef Saori Odoi. For those of you with allergies or just watching what you eat, you’ll love the nutrition cards which explains each seasonal speciality. Also open for lunch – and serves natural ice creams in summer. More on Foucade pastry shop. This is their workshop address but they can also be found in the Marais (61 rue de Bretagne, Paris 3). Closed Monday.
Foucade Paris, 24 rue des Moines, Paris 17
Relax in this new contemporary tea salon created by pastry chef Kévin Lacote, and watch the chefs from the open lab prepare the ‘création à la minute’ where many of their specialities are assembled at the last minute to retain their freshness.
I adore their vanilla flan but you must also try the speciality: KL vanilla Churros served with an orange-passion compote and chocolate sauce, which is remarkably light and not too sweet. Also worth noting is the vanilla-caramel millefeuille or the brioche pain perdu served on a confiture de lait. (AC) Closed Monday.
KL Patisserie, 78 Avenue de Villiers, Paris 17
Choose from the patisserie trolley of today’s specials, crafted by chef Guy Krenzer and his team following on from Gaston Lenôtre’s creation of modern patisserie. Try the Schuss, the signature dessert created by Gaston Lenôtre in 1968 for the Winter Olympic Games in Grenoble, the Bagatelle (created in 1966) resembling a Fraisier with added raspberry jelly, plus their chocolate-yuzu and jasmine macarons. More in my article on Le Nôtre. (AC)
Lenôtre, 121 avenue de Wagram, Paris 17
Paris 18 (Montmartre)
Near Sacré Coeur
CHRISTOPHE ROUSSEL DUO AVEC JULIE
The legendary chocolatier/patissier from La Baule has added a chocolate bar to his Montmartre boutique, primarily for hot chocolate, tea, coffee and for tasting his teacakes, chocolates and huge range of macarons (cheesecake, Tulameen raspberry). A great pick-me-up before heading up the steps – try his Butte de Montmartre chocolates, made especially for us in Paris. Try the fun flavours including one with crackling sugar!
See much more on Christophe Roussel in my article. (AC) Closed Wednesday.
Christophe Roussel, 5 rue Tardieu, Paris 18
Relatively new to Montmartre, this pâtisserie is already popular at all times but service is slick and friendly. Many varieties of home-baked French cakes, viennoiseries, scones and teas are a lovely welcome at the counter and, through the back, check out the open kitchen where quiches are being prepared with salads for lunch. I need to return to taste more but my favourites so far? Try the brioche feuillétée and their gluten-free financiers (almond, hazelnut or coconut) are just perfectly dosed with the right amount of sugar: not too much, not too little.
Good coffee and excellent choices of tea.
Open for breakfast, lunch, and teatime. Weekend brunch: reservation only. Closed Mon/Tues.
La Bossue Patisserie, 9 rue Joseph de Maistre, Paris 18
For many more of the best pastry, chocolate and macaron shops near Sacré Coeur, see my Chocolate Pastry Walk in Montmartre.